Bayonne to Bidart 20.8kilometers

Our first morning walking did not start well.

First we needed our starting stamp. this could only be obtained at the Cathedral. We found the Cathedral easily enough and once inside we found where we would obtain our stamp, but there would be no one there until nine thirty. So we crossed the road and had some breakfast. We had something resembling eggy bread with sugar on it. Apparently  a specialty of these parts and quite tasty, set us up for the morning.

Back in the Cathedral we got our stamp and the guy gave us lots of information, but I am afraid most of it went over our heads.

His first bit of advice was to keep going right. We soon realized this was not going to help us, we got to the river and had we turned right we would have been headed back along the coast, so we followed the river.

The trouble is we did not know if we were following it the right way. I still have not got the hang of the GPS, but after about a kilometer we saw a sign for Biarritz.

There were no waymarkings so we were on our own here. Anyone who knows this coast will know that it turns out into a peninsula. We did not. Following the coast added miles to our journey. Biarritz just seemed to get further away.

Eventually we realized the error of our ways and turned inland, but too little too late we would not make Hendaya today.

We had started the day much later than we hoped and now the distance was growing. We should have got to Biarritz in 7.5kilometers by the time we had passed we had done more than fourteen. Welcome cup of coffee here, but the intermittent rain meant I struggled with my rain cover on the rucksack every time we stopped.

We reached Bidart at 20k and it was time to look for a bed.  We were passed by a dutch man on a bike, he seemed to know where he was going, so at least we were on the right road. He stopped at the tourist office for a stamp so we did too. Just as well as we never got one in our hostel later.

They gave us directions to a hostel, but when we arrived it was all shut up. Open again at eight. Tired as I was, I was in no mood to sit outside on the pavement for two hours only to be told it was full up. So we rested a while on their seats and then headed on.

The next little village was also part of Bidart but did not look like it had much going for it, but appearances can be deceptive.

In the village we asked for a hotel or pension and someone directed us back the way we had come and then to the right. We found a very reasonable place with a spacious ground floor room and plenty of space to spread our stuff out.

We found a bar in the centre and for the first time came across this problem; no food until eight. The staff were very helpful though explaining what each item was on the menu. The food was good when it came, and the place was filling up well. Seems to be the local stop off HOGs. I suppose the, usually, good weather makes it ideal for your average Harley Davidson. Certainly non seemed to have travelled far.

We bought some croissants and drinks for the morning in the village shop, then it was off for a good nights sleep.

The journey Down

As usual we were up early, ready to go by seven. Then by the time we had locked up and buried the keys in my rucksack it was already ten past. So we had little time to wait for the bus at twenty four minutes past.

At the bus stop we already got comments “You look well prepared” “just a day’s shopping in Chester” I replied. At the station some guy nearly missed his train when he saw my shell. He simply had to come and ask about our camino. “It will be hot this time of year” he had said.

Virgin trains, not as good as Arriva, I’m afraid. Not trolley service and the wifi needs registering and paying for.

Once in London things did not go too well either. I knew that we should not disconnect from railway buildings to get from Euston to St Pancras but somehow we got lost. We had time to spare though. We wandered the streets, eventually doing a full circle and coming almost back to where we had started. The direction arrow at the exit of Euston was simply pointing the wrong way.

The departure lounge was packed. It seems that a train was delayed. Our train also was delayed, domino effect. Then we met someone else had seen the shell and wanted to talk Camino. This helped pass some time.

Then we met up with a fiddle player who talked about playing with the same passion that  we  have when we talk about tango. It was very interesting.

By the time we got on the train we were on our third boarding pass nearly an hour late and had no reserved seats. Still we managed to get a table seat and were quite comfortable. Travelling under the sea is not very interesting so we travelled almost in silence. We still managed to arrived in plenty of time for our next train. It was parked and waiting for the gate to open.

When the gate opened we walked the length of the train looking for our carriage, an American woman passed us in the opposite direction. We turned and walked back so did the American woman, After the third passing we decided to just get on and sit together.

Our coach never did exist. So we enjoyed each others company and decided that we would face the next problems together.

Due to French strikes our journey was to terminate at Bordeaux and not continue to Bayonne. We had no idea what lay ahead for us, so moral support is all we could give each other.

At Bordeaux there was no sign of help and there was scaffold and boarding everywhere. We decided to look outside. We found a coach office, but it was closed. So we decided to find a room and wait until morning. We managed to find a three bed room at a reasonable price, so we would all bunk up together. Linda decided that as we were going to sleep together then perhaps we should introduce ourselves. Then we all went off for some pasta and beer. This was the strangest beer I have ever drank, Monaco, it was like fizzy Ribena. Still it hit the spot.

In the morning, there was still no sign of help in the station, so we had some breakfast and waited for the Eurocoach office to open.

When it did finally open we found we would have to wait until five o’clock, so we set off to explore Bordeaux.  With two women in tow it was inevitable, I suppose, we ended up in the market.

After that we found ourselves in a bar called Inglorious Bar Star. We did not see any German soldiers in there though.

Eventually we caught our bus and arrived at Bayonne. Here we had to part, our hotel had agreed we could still have our room, a day late, and Linda set off for her room, after thanking us for rescuing her.

Our hotel was quite snug, we shared a bathroom and toilet. The room was all clad in wood paneling and painted white. We found a bar fitted out like an American diner and had a hamburger. Sat with us were plastic facsimiles of the Blues Brothers, so Viv took my picture with them. Off to bed then ready for the first of many early starts.

Off we go again

When we started our last Camino, I was struck by the amount of people who were doing their second or third Camino. We even met one guy who was on his tenth. I admit to thinking why would anyone want to repeat the same walk.

As we reached the end we started to understand, and after getting home we started missing the comerardrie and the shear joy of doing nothing but putting one foot in front of the other.

So we have decided to repeat the experience. Not for us though blighthly treading the same ground. Last time  we did the Camino Frances, the one everyone knows and made famous by Martin Sheen in The Way. This time we intend to do the Northern Camino.

The Northern Camino follows the coast until it turns inland on The Camino Ingles at Sebrayo. Although we may take another route at this point. We Intend to start from Bayonne this time as well. This will save the final bus journey, and give us at least two days of walking in France.

So now we plan, buy the things we need, and hopefully get a little fitter.

The train tickets are bought, the rucksack is packed, then unpacked, packed again. What to take and what to leave, will I ever get the hang of the GPS. All the worries will fade once we start walking.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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