Can’t keep us in, we’re British

Did I mention that Friday is our day off?

Viv wanted to go to the end of the H line again and do some more exploring, so that is what we did. We carried on until the final end of the line at the Faculty derecho. Unfortunately we were sort of cut off at this point. We literally could get nowhere without passing through building sites.

So we came back across the bridge and headed for the Mercedes building. This was new to me, last time we came here it was Ferrari. Same expensive prices different logos, so we passed.

Across the road again we came into the United Nations Plaza, and we got a closer look at Flor this time.


I didn’t get all the details but it was built by Lockheed in 2002. If you look closely at the construction you can sort of see the aircraft hereditary in it. We sat for a while in the shade and read a little. Already it was getting too hot.

At the far end of the plaza we went to the gate but it was locked. Some other people did the same thing and we saw them walking off shaking their heads.  Our birth certificates may add our years up to over 110 years but our minds are still in their teens. So it was eight foot high, we can climb over. We got some good natured abuse from the passing traffic, but we are British  and if we want to go that way, well, we jolly well do.

As we walked further on we passed some big fancy places and many Embassy’s. This was no place for us to stop, we would need a mortgage just to pull up a chair.

Eventually we arrived at MALBA  and fortunately for us the top of the Obelisco is still there. You can walk inside and get an idea of the view from the top as there is a screen where each window would be, showing a running film of both ways on 25 July and Corrientes. Most people were standing outside a bit nervous about going in, they missed a great media event.

Obelisco without the top

Don’t worry it was all a trick, they never took the top off.

We stopped off at Carrefour and bought some lunch and sat eating in the shade, then we went off further down Salguero. I found that it is almost impossible to reach the river, but there is a huge industrial/ shopping park in between. I looked it up later, it is massive. There is football there, golf, go carts and a massive conference centre and events and entertainment. Seems strange that I have heard nothing of it before. google “Costa Salguero” if you are interested.

Back at Carrefour we were looking for a comfort break and it turns out that there is another shopping complex behind and above the supermarket. They do not sign the toilets well here and we had all but given up when somehow we found ourselves in them. It was like some magical doorway. “I wish we had a toilet” then suddenly we were in one. Must have been magic beans in that empanada.

There was no point in heading back to the subte, it was almost as far as home, so we set off up Salguero again, eventually stopping at one of our old watering holes San Martin for a coffee break.

Got back at about four thirty and the temperature was 36 degrees. I have no Idea how hot it was when we were trudging in that sun, but we were drained when we got back. Time for some beer methinks.




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Just an illusion?

There is something comforting in eggy bread. A reminder of childhood and days when food was scarce. I suppose that is what it was, only two eggs left so Viv did some magic with them. Still it was a nice change for a lunch time snack.

I had spent the morning servicing the air con and we were all out of things that needed doing, so a bit of comfort food was just the ticket.

As I was showering ready to go out the door intercom buzzed. I answered to hear the ropa lady going on and on. I had a bag of clothes but I was not coming down without clothes on. I tried to tell her to come to the front of the building, I could throw the bag from the balcony. She would not shut up long enough to listen. Some people need to remember we were born with two ears and one mouth and we should use them in that order. I left her ranting and went to get dressed.

Was it an illusion? or were the women outnumbered today at Nuevo Chique? Certainly Viv never missed a tanda and I struggled a few times. It is a happy state of affairs though, if Viv is getting dances I don’t get earache. We stayed later than usual which was a bonus. The start was a bit quiet, but it picked up in stages so that there was always someone new to dance with.

We still don’t have the stamina though, three hours was enough. Time for a coffee before catching our colectivo home.

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Dietetica Cheap food

Viv dragged me out shopping again. I suppose we need all this stuff, but it’s still a bind. It eats all my daily allowance as well, but the dietetica always surprises me. 1Kg of oats 200grams of prunes 200grams of tropical mix and 100 grams of Japanese peanuts (if you don’t know it’s hard to explain) all for $108, less than £6. Well that made me happy.

Off to Salon Canning again as it’s Wednesday.  I think we were early as there was hardly anyone there. Not many women really so I let Viv get some early dances in while I sat out.

Soon the numbers were up and so was the percentage of women. I had some really good dances and found out where New Jersey is. After two and a half hours though it was starting to get difficult. Canning is a big floor and it is hard to see beyond the crowd immediately around you.

I started failing to get dances, then Viv did. We sort of took it in turns to get up. I did not want to start wandering around and Viv did not want to sit out, so it was time to go.

I paid for the drinks and said my goodbyes. As usual I say goodbye to the DJ and Mario tried to sell me one of his CDs. He never gives up.

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Panqueque Day

It is still ferria so it is still quiet outside. So Viv cannot be roused, another late start. She sent me to the post but that was fruitless, it was just going to be a lazy morning.

Off to Nuevo Chique again and we seemed to have good seats. It was fruitless though for Viv, the women outnumbered the men at least three to one. While I could not fail, she was having a bad time. She went over to Peter and Maggie for a while, but she was not for stopping. We left far earlier than normal and headed off to Constitution.

Pancakes are not the normal thing here, some places do have them as desert, but that is it. Anyway we stopped at a place that had them and had some amusing dialogue with the waiter. We asked for cerveza negra and then pancakes. “Cerveza y Panqueque?” he asked. “Si” said I. I told him that martes de carnival is pancake day in England “panqueque y Cerveza?” he said. Every day is cerveza day in England I told him.

You never quite know what you will get here, Viv got two pancakes,, one wrapped around dulche de leche, the other wrapped around some sort of cream. I got a flat pancake that was set on fire, very spectacular. I got some apple slices as well underneath.

So that was our pancakes, hardly traditional, but then we are not in The UK.

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Lunes de carnival

It was quiet this morning, unusually so, there was little traffic. So Viv took advantage and stayed in bed.

It gave me a chance to catch up on the painting. The plaster here is soft and seems to get knocks easily and there is a patch that persistently comes away.  So the place is looking pristine again, for another year.

Off to plaza Bohemia again today so we set off to catch the 168 colectivo. As we walked down Corrientes one flew past us. There was no point in running we were on the wrong side and could not have got through the traffic.

We waited 35 minutes for the next bus. I was getting seriously peed off by the time it arrived. I think we had a similar experience last year, Lunes de Carnival means less busses I suppose.

Normally Mondays here are quiet but the numbers were already up. Still we were given good seats, they always look after the regulars. We had a really good time, Viv only missed one tanda despite being surrounded by lovelies. One ninety year old guy would not dance with her because he wanted to dance with the girl with braces, I ask you. Does he really think he stands a chance with a barely pubescent teen?

Meanwhile I was enjoying some lovely dances with ladies who have a bit more experience and learning how this blog is becoming an educational tool. It is an old story, you never explore your own city as much as a foreigner.

I found out the name of the lunatic dancer who always makes my day. His name is Roger, apparently he thinks Bob is a funny name.

The old 151 is as reliable as ever and the chino across the road has fresh bread. So it is back for some black beer and lentejas.

We can still hear the noise from the Murgas, but this year everything is happening higher up Corrientes. Suits me, I enjoyed it last year, but it is not what we come here for. We may well give all the noise and the spray foam a miss this time.


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End of the line

Time for some exploration. The subte H line has been extended and I wanted to see where it went. We caught it at Corrientes off the B line and passed through Cordoba and expected to stop at Santa fe, but the train just ran on until the end at Las Heras.

I was a bit puzzled but we were here now so it was time to get out and explore. In front of us was a huge building that looked like Church that the top had been lopped off.RIMG0014

Turns out it is the faculty of engineering University of Buenos Aires. It looks like they are spending a considerable amount on restoring it.

We took a left turn because Viv saw what she thought were more interesting buildings. When we got close I realised we were at the back of Recoleta cemetery. So we followed the wall around to the front. We have seen all this before and were not in the market for guided tours so we wandered on. We found ourselves in Recoleta cultural centre. Being me I wandered off into the parts where visitors are not supposed to go. With it being Sunday nobody was working in this area so there was nothing to see. Apart from what looked like a church from a Disney set, it looked false to me. What do you think?RIMG0017

Prices here are aimed at the rich tourists, not penniless tango dancers, so we looped around the back again and looked for somewhere to have a coffee. Inside the television was on with the Wales Ireland Rugby on. So we just had to sit there until the end. Wales did well to pull back and rescue a draw. I am no expert on Rugby, but I think that they looked weak, I hope they pull themselves up soon.

So we wandered off again and found some imposing steps, well we had to go up them.RIMG0018

We found ourselves outside the British Embassy. It looks a bit modern and utilitarian compared to other buildings here, but I suppose we do not have the most popular government here.

Anyway we now have a quick route to Recoleta and it was time to head back. Again when we left Las Heras station we looked for Santa fe. This time we noticed that it was all boarded up. So we have no link yet to the D line, glad I did not try for that first. I will have to watch the news for when it is open. At least we found the end of the line, The end of the line is the cemetery.

One hell of a storm has hit us, thunder and lightning, and the cars driving past like motor boats, lets hope it eases up.

It did ease up enough for us to go to Fulgor again. Glad we did it was a great night, with some new faces and a lot of kissing again.

By the time I got home I was rather hot, a rain coat does not exactly keep you cool and the humidity was a killer.


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Feeling good

Viv sent me out for some shopping again. I popped into the chino on Salguero and it was packed. I can’t cope with this so I went on to the Almacen. That was packed too so I took a ticket for the cooked meat and cheese 29 and they were calling 11. So I went over to the butchers and got served quite quickly. Two nice steaks for tonight beefe de chorizo, Mmm.

I waited an agonizing time at the counter, then 28 was called and she wanted 250 grams of crudo. Then 29 was called, of course there was no crudo on the counter, time for me to use that Spanish “100 grams de crudo” I said. She shuffled the meat, tried something different and looked at me hopefully “Esta hombre tiene” I said. She looked puzzled for a minute and then understood.

Then down to the chino on Guardia for some milk. The girl at the counter asked how I was and then if we had electricity. So I told her our corner rarely has problems, and we talked bout the rest of the block being off last night. It sounds like a moronic conversation, but it is a quantum leap for me. Three conversations this morning and I did not trip up. I am in no doubt that I am far from fluent, but today, at least, I feel good.

Another Arranque day and the dancing was good. One lady I have been trying to dance with looked at me in a Tanda that I had no desire to dance. I thought I had missed my chance, but my very last tanda I managed to get her up.

It looked nasty the big guy pushed the offending chair off the floor, another big guy on the next table was pushed back. He got up aggressively, I knew where this was ending. They all started laughing. I have been poked in the ribs, blind sided and kicked, but with this guy it is always in fun. He dances like no one is watching and often starts chanting when the Cumbia is on. I don’t even know his name yet he lifts my spirits and I am always happy to see him. Funny how some people just make the world a better place, just by being there.

Enough amateur philosophy, I am off home for that beefe de chorizo.


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