Don’t tar them all with the same brush

We hear a lot about the crime here, Viv even had her phone stolen, but I refuse to believe that it is all bad here. I still believe that most people are honest and will help you out if they can, which brings me to today’s story.

We were in Nuevo Chique on Tuesday. We arrived early as normal and took our usual seats. The class was still on so we waited for it to finish and for Danny to start the music. There were not yet many here so, first tanda we danced together. As we danced around the room, the teacher from the class came asking everyone if they had dropped a wallet. I checked my pocket and my wallet was still there, so Viv said that there was no point in checking if it was ours. We thought no more of it and carried on.

Wednesday we were in El Beso, Perfume de Mujer and afterwards had our usual coffe at Tuo Tempo. We then walked up Corrientes and stopped off at the Argentine version of Super Drug. Change is always a problem here so I asked Viv to bring out her reserves. She emptied her bag and there was no sign of her money. We could not decide what had happened. I thought she had left it when she bought earrings. Then she remembered the wallet in Chique.

I contacted Marcela that night. Not expecting an instant reply, but hoping that maybe if it was still there they would have it available on Thursday.

At Chique there was some confusion when I asked the teacher. Seems that Tuesday and Thursday are different. Well how would I know? I take no notice of the class, I am too busy changing my shoes and cooling down from the walk. Anyway, Vicky had the wallet ready for Viv and fortunately Viv could recount exactly how much was in it and the two business cards.

Anyone could have claimed that wallet, it then passed through several hands. Nobody thought of anything but returning it to its owner. We still do not have Vivs phone back, but my faith is restored.

Are Argentines unique?

I have just read a book about walking. The author postulates that when you walk around a city people will automatically take avoiding action, allowing speedy access around busy streets. All I can say is that the author has never been to Buenos Aires. Here people walk straight out of shops into your path or just stop for a conversation on the narrowest part of the pavement. They will walk straight through you as if you were a ghost.

Today I visited my favourite veg shop. Nothing unusual there then, but I as unable to get in. An old lady was blocking the entrance with her shopping trolley. Not content with just not going inside she had parked her trolley lengthwise across the threshold.

By the time I had spent about three times as long as I had been in the Chino, my favourite lady appeared from the back “hay chop soy?” I asked ” Si” she said, but by now there was a further problem. The old lady was trying to pay with her mobile. This for some reason was not working and so the proprietor had to take over.

Now the girl who had been serving turned her attention to me “hay chop soy?” I tried again. Now she could not get into the fridge, because it is by the entrance and the shopping trolley was again in the way. Eventually the lady of the shop sorted the payment and I was handed a tray with chop suey on it.

I managed to get out passed the old lady who was still faffing just in time to miss the lights on the crossing. “You were a long time” said Viv on my return. “Argentines” was my reply. She needed no other explanation.

You loose some, you win some

Saturdays we now go to Quique Carmargo at El Beso. This week though it was somewhat different, it was Quique’s birthday. Now we tend to avoid special days, but sometimes I ignore my own advice.

We should have known, there was a band on and Quique was greeting everyone as they entered. Did I say everyone? well, all those in front of us and those behind. Seems we are non people. We come to his milongas four times a week every week but he cannot be bothered remembering us. OK we can pass on that we only come to dance, and he will never get money off us for lessons.

It was obvious they were expecting a crowd today. The seats were pushed right up to each other and so were the tables. To change my shoes I had to wait for a tanda and spread myself out to get myself sorted. Still I felt like Superman changing in a telephone box.

The dancing went well, Viv managed to get plenty of dances, but it was almost impossible to move. I found it hard to cabeceo through the mass of people. It was also difficult to manouvre through the tables. So much so that I knocked over some guys wine, all over the back of my pants. Viv thought it hilarious when she saw my wet pants, well that lifted her day. Cost me a glass of wine and then a row with the bar staff, the guy did not think I should take the serviettes. Luckily our waitress supplied me with some later.

After less than two hours we’d had enough. We never got to see Los Reys again, I should stick to my guns “No live bands at matinee milongas”

Monday and we were back again at Beso. Quique is still ignoring us, but OK at least Susi welcomes us. It is still busy but as I soon find there are more men than women. This almost never happens. I have to sit out a couple of tandas but Viv is up for every one. Well when she is happy, I have an easy life.

I thought that it would not last, but I was wrong, Viv never missed a tanda. After missing a few at the beginning though, I kept dancing. Because of the numbers though it was a difficult afternoon for me. There were a few I missed dancing with just because they were out of my line of sight.

Graciela arrived like a storm, sat in front of me caused chaos, entertained me and sang the lyrics of the tanda we danced. Julia, I’m afraid I never got a dance with. Not close enough and always popular. Even though I do not go to her milonga regularly she always says hello and tells me how good a dancer I am. I feel quite guilty not going, “must try harder” as it always said on my school reports.

We also met a French couple that we met on our cruise in 2020. We did not have much of a conversation as our only shared language is Spanish, I wonder if we will see them again this year.

Manners

Every day I see men lead a woman onto the dance floor straight into passing dancers. Men stop at a ladies table oblivious to the chaos they cause to the dancers. I have seen it all here, things were so different when I started. It was not just the codigos but a respect for the dancers and doing as you would like to be done to.

Today I saw something totally new to me. Maybe this occurs in other cities, maybe Tokyo, I don’t know but it amused me. A Japanese guy was sitting with a blond lady. I don’t know her origin, but they looked like a couple to me. Anyway they got up to dance and approached the floor. The guy made no attempt to enter the ronda, he stood back and made a gesture to be allowed in. Now there was more than enough room for him, but he waited to be allowed in. Someone, of course let him in and as he entered the ronda he politely bowed to the man letting him in.

I thought it extremely amusing, but at the same time I thought that was the nicest etiquette I have ever seen. So used to getting pushed and shoved, my way blocked and getting kicked with rarely an apology. If this is Tokyo tango, maybe the world should go there to learn and not Buenos Aires.

Some things become clear

Every year after about a month here I go down with flu like symptoms We have put it down variously to, the aircon, street pollution and just bad hygiene. We were finally put right by Marcelo who said something about the platano trees.

The trees look nothing like banana trees and I thought he was talking nonsense. Still I have learned not to dismiss what I am told out of hand. After an internet search it seems the trees are a Genus Platano. In England they are called Plane Trees. Indeed it is commonly agreed that many people do have an allergic reaction to them. So I am going to try some Lorathdina, the local version of Piriton, I believe.

On that note, we went to Philippe’s last night, for some Pizza with Walter. I enjoyed the company, food and beer, but I was definitely flagging by the time we left. When we got home I was unable to do our yoga practice, I just collapsed in a heap on my yoga mat.

I needed no rocking. I went to bed and fell instantly asleep. I did not wake up until 10am. Despite almost 11 hours I was still not refreshed. I had a coffee then went back to bed for another two hours.

I felt better by the time we headed off for Nuevo Chique, but I was still not 100%. I think it may be another early night.

Working

Well not all the time. I have put my foot down and am going to El Beso on Saturday, Viv can stay home and work if she so wishes.

First though breakfast at Martinez, it’s tradition. We had a good waitress today, the first time ever it was right first time; Cappuccino, Cafe con leche, two Yogurts one without banana. See last years blogs for the amount of times they got it wrong.

Just across the road is a paint shop. Everything is behind the counter. The guy did not understand “seda” obviously they call silk paint something else. I know that there is an other paint shop on the next block, one where I can pick out the paint. In there they had satin, but not silk, near enough then. Then I tried to pay with credit card, I want to find the rate I get. I knew what would happen, “su documento por favor” of course I did not have my passport with me, so it was a rush back to get it.

Now buying things here is an experience not to be missed. She takes my passport writes down the details, then I have to put in the pin, then sign the slip and then again my passport number. It is easier buying a car at home. Now I wait to see how much it has cost me, this being the weekend, I don’t think that I will know until Monday.

Viv may have spent the day at home, but I enjoyed an afternoon of El Beso. It was more crowded than I have seen for many a year, I think in part it is due to the closing of Canning, but a lot is due or a drrto people coming back after the pandemic. I think she would have enjoyed it, but what do I know?

After a good afternoon I returned and Viv wanted a drink and some food. We first went to Aport for a drink afterwards we set off for Kentucky pizza. On the way there we met Walter, we had a long chat,but were unable to convince him to join us. Which was a shame as we could not eat all that we ordered, we had to bring some home in a box.

This post is about two weeks old, I must have missed publishing it.

A Day to forget

Well it started well enough. We headed for Martinez as our wont on a Saturday. The last two times there they had our order spot on. I don’t know if we confused the girl deciding which cappuccino to have, but something certainly confused her. Other than the cappuccinos our order was as always; two yogurts with fruit, one with no banana. It has taken two years for them to get it right, but now we were confident. The confidence of fools, Vivs yogurt was fine, but not mine. So how does “sin banana” sound like chuck everything else out and fill my bowl with nothing but banana. I even said “no puedo comer “. So back it went. I did not get a fresh one, you could see how the bowl had been scraped out. I was half hoping that there would be traces left and I would redecorate the place. Fortunately for all concerned, it was fine.

We stopped off on Corrientes for some sweets as a gift for Graciela. As it’s her birthday Monday. We passed another place selling folding umbrellas. Viv persuaded me to buy one to keep in my bag for next time it rains. Then more cheese scones as I was not satisfied with my yogurt for breakfast. I did not get any muesli in mine so it was far from satisfying.

Viv suffering from fomo, I think, decided to come to El Beso with me today. For a change we took the subte down. That left us a bit fresher, and able to dance more. For the first hour Viv hardly missed a dance, even though I struggled once or twice. It was not to last. It soon got crowded and I found navigating the floor difficult. We stuck it out for three hours though before retiring to Tuo tempo for coffee. No medialunas though as we were going straight to eat.

The next corner of our block has become quite lively of late. Imaginario Bar is closed for some reason, but there is a choice of two others.We have been in Aport a few times now so we thought we would try Zorra (look it up in a Spanish Dictionary) for a change.

It was quiet at this time so we had a good table. We had a menue and decided on a wrap and a burger and, of course two pintas Stout. Then the waitress came back no food for an hour, so we just had the stout. I suppose on an empty stomach with a strong beer, that Viv was not functioning well. When a guy came in begging and offering dish cloths she never thought about her phone. He must have covered it then stole it. It was a while before she even noticed. The guy behind the bar contacted the owner and said he would check the cameras. Street people, we would never see the ladron again.

We still had no food and we had enough of this place so we went over to Aport for another wrap and chips.

It had been an expensive day, what with the umbrella and extra bar calls. My budget was shot to the wind for two days and that is not counting the cost of Vivs phone. Still can’t complain, living here is cheap by any standards, I just set my budget low.

Money issues

The demise of Azimo caused me no end of worries. My first withdrawal from Western Union I had prepared from home. The company recommended by Azimo did not seem able to answer how I would get cash. Many on the BA Expats site were able to advise me about WU so that is the direction I took.

The first withdrawal I was able to print out all the details at home, but still I had problems finding the right place to go, and it was during holiday time so there were big queues.

This time it seemed to go well but my email never arrived. I thought that if I had it on my phone that would be as good as a print out. So all that I had was my tracking number.

I found the office easily this time, despite putting the wrong address in my Blog. The office was all but empty. Three teller windows and only one other customer. So I was soon served. I showed him my piece of paper with the tracking number, my passport, then gave him my address and soon I was walking out with a positive mountain of money.

We always feel nervous with this amount of money, but in truth it is not that much. The figures are big and that makes it feel huge. Ar$400 to the pound means that every $1000 is only £2.50.

Still we felt it safer to walk back. After an obligatory coffee on Cordoba we only have to follow Cordoba until we reach Salguero. When we got to Pueyrredon there are barriers to stop you crossing at the junction. So having turned the corner, I thought we would walk up Tucaman instead. What I did not know is that there is another road here San Luis. I have walked these streets for close to 20 years, and never come across this street before. We walked up until it finished at Billinghurst, then finally we joined Tucuman.

When we got back it was time to count out all those notes. Should last me a few more weeks before I have to do it all again.

Our third week

Nothing to say about the weekend, I danced at El Beso and Viv stayed home Saturday. Sunday I spent the day painting. Hard going up and down steps with a roller, but I finished the ceiling. Still more to do but it can wait. Viv might get impatient but I am not about to be rushed,

The week did not get off to a good start. El Beso was all set up for the band later. but we just wanted to dance. Four tandas in and the power went off. We sat and waited and after an hour Quique said it would be back in twenty minutes. True to his word the lights came on, then we had to wait for his computer to power up. So more delay.then half a tanda in the power went off again.

We sat for a while, but we’d had enough. As we left I said to Julia “TIA This is Argentina” She speaks very good English, but I am not sure she quite gets the wit. She said “these things happen in your country when it is hot” I’m afraid I had to disillusion her, especially as we do not use air conditioners to the same extent.

Tuesday and we were again off to Nuevo Chique. I don’t know what is so different here, but Viv hardly missed a tanda. It was hot and despite the air conditioning there were some very damp bodies here. Our last tanda was Pugliese, now Viv always dances it with Miguel, so I got Dora up. I did not want to miss out and as it happened Miguel missed the tanda all together.

By seven we had enough and set off for Vittoria. Another delicious befe de lomo and a can of Quilmes beer. That was me set up for the night.

Wednesday and we went back to Perfume de Mujer at El Beso. Viv did very well here. I think it is because there is a lot of the old El Arranque crowd here. It got very crowded, with the demise of Canning there is a shortage of matinee milongas. Later in the milonga I danced Pugliese with Dora again. I said that I do not normally dance Pugliese and she said neither does she. It looks like the three of us are stuck together, Dora, Pugliese, and I.

Thursday and few of our regular friends were there, that said Viv managed most dances. Celebrating Marcelas birthday, so we had some cake. We also had a band on, but not many we spoke to were happy about it, that may be why the numbers were down. The organizers here do not see to get it; people just want to dance, they are not interested in bands. We stayed for half an hour of the band then we were off, with quite a few others, I noted.

In days passed we frequented Taco Box on Gascon, this sadly is no more so tonight we went to the one on Medrano. There was good reason why we went to Gascon and not the one closest to us, tonight we were reminded why. Tex Mex is off from now on then.

Back to El Abrazo again Friday.Viv did not do so well here, but then she never has. That said she danced more than she sat out so it’s a plus. Maria came to celebrate her birthday, but for some reason she would not start until Julia arrived. Well with less than two hours to run and us having danced four hours Viv was off. I stayed for a few tandas more and did a Vals with Maria, but had reached saturation. Time to go to Tuo Tempo, without my cake.

Talking of saturation, it was pouring down, so we sat inside. Discretion being the better part of valour we took the subte home. Viv had an umbrella, but I was not dressed for rain.

Saturday and I was off alone to Tango Carmargo at Beso.I had three hours of solid dancing. Tried to get Ramon some business but he was too much of a gentleman to teach someone that he could not communicate with well. My respect for him just grows.

After three hours it was back to Aport, where I met Viv and we had some food and the Stella noir. Very nice it was too.

Our second week

Things are gradually changing, Beso on Monday Viv got quite a few dances. It bodes well for the rest of our stay. Usually it takes a while for her to get known again, but after a week, this is good. Tuesday in Nuevo Chique she barely missed a tanda, worked up a good appetite for our bife de lomo in Vittoria.

Things are going well, but we should not get complacent. So on Wednesday I gave Viv the choice Sueño Porteño or El Beso. I knew which way she would go. She left Sueño early last week and although it is close enough that she can make her way home, it was not satisfactory, to leave after such a short time. Pefume de Mujer is actually the remnants of the old El Arranque crowd. We tried last year but it was mainly couples, but we had been assured it had changed. It had, it was now all the old crowd. Viv barely sat down until she had to miss her favourite Rodriguez track, then she was off. Next came the “Tropical” so I followed close behind.

It has taken me a few days to get a handle on the money. I don’t want my pockets bulging, but it is necessary to have enough with me for the day. Now I have settled on an amount for each day and it seems to be working. Today though I paid for my drinks with my last thousand. Viv was already over the road and had ordered cappuccinos, not just any but with cream and medialunas as well. I had some small notes, but not,I suspected enough. I must have forgotten my daily allowance this morning. Fortunately Viv still had two thousand left from the money I gave her to pay for her drinks. It was a close call though, I don’t know how much washing up pays for two cappuccinos con crema.

Viv has broken the pipe on the vacuum again. It has reached the stage where I must replace it. Every time I have to cut over an inch off, and now it is getting too short. Our usual spares place does not have one. They can sell me just pipe but the end is almost beyond repair, so I will try the internet. I have found one on Mercardo libre, but I have no account. Experience here is that all these things are impossible without DNI, so I contacted Walter. Everyone here needs a Walter or Philippe.

The good times could not continue, Viv struggled in Chique. To be fair, the numbers were down, even I had problems. Still she was not too put out and we ended the evening at Imaginario with a giant omelette and oven cooked potatoes.

So Friday comes. It has never been the best day for Viv, but I am convinced she did better than usual, but what do I know? Some old friends appeared today that we have not seen for a while. Anna (borracha, as we call her) was there. We have not seen her for maybe three years. She always sat by Viv in Chique and when we asked we were told she had dementia, she looked fine to me. Maybe I have dementia as well so cannot recognize it. She is still the only lady drinking beer in the milonga though not actually drunk.(Borracha). She told me she no longer goes to Chique, but not why. Jatinda and Barbara were also there, they arrived yesterday. Jatinda danced with Viv, but I’m afraid I never managed to get a dance with Barbara.

As usual we left before all the party dances and sorteo. Off to Tuo tempo again for coffee and a media luna, then a walk home.