Tag Archives: subte

Lita Morales

Well, I did not put it in yesterdays blog as I had to do some fact checking, but I had the honour to dance with a lady yesterday, now living in the states. Turns out she is the daughter of Lita Morales. This has to be the highlight of my trip. Moral of the story, never ignore that older lady at the back, she may have some secret that will surprise you.

She told me she travelled with an orquesta as a child, but seemed reluctant to tell me any more. I asked her who her parents were and she seemed suspicious of me asking. But when I extracted who her mother was she seemed surprised I had heard of her. Nice for us both then I suppose.

I danced with her again tonight at Milonga de Juan. The milonga itself was a disappointment today, too few people, although Viv did get some new dances. All in all though it was tough going. Then we had a fire test. Now at home, we have an alarm and everyone knows what is going on, even if you don’t hear the announcement, here they do it different. They had announced it earlier, but then they just stopped the music and put the lights out. Some even thought “corta de luz” it must have taken ten minutes for everyone to realize. By then we would have all been toast.

Well by half six we had , had enough and left. There is a new café on the corner under Casa Galicia called Espacio Café, so we thought we would give it a try. Nice coffee and media lunes only 60$ar. Unfortunately he closes at seven, so it is unlikely to be a regular call for us, even though I told him to stay open on Tuesday and Thursday. The patron was Italian which was good for me as it meant Spanish was a second language for him. We had quite a chat, possibly the best I have had yet.

Any one confused by my Facebook post La Nacional is the building in which Milonga de Juan is held, there is no Facebook page yet for Espacio Café.

Afterwards we walked back to congresso to catch our colectivo. There was a small queue and no sign of a bus. Up at Callao there was an anti abortion  demonstration going on. Looks like no busses tonight. After waiting ten minutes we decided to walk to Corrientes y Callao and catch the subte.

At least they were running and we stepped straight on. One way or another we can always get home here.

Advertisements

1 Comment

Filed under Tango

You just can’t go back again.

I think I have found someone who can weld here. I went for a morning wander, unfortunately I forget it is the weekend. Twenty years of never having one myself, perhaps I can be forgiven. On Sanchez de Bustamente I saw an opening and three guys and a woman sitting drinking coffee (or maybe mate, I could not tell). There was workshop materials behind them and I spotted what I thought was a gas bottle “Puedes soldaro con gas ” I asked. The guy looked puzzled “Soldadero?” he said “No hoy”. Now one thing I have learned here is not to be put of, not today was the nearest I have yet received to a yes. “Puedes soldadero en la semana?” I tried ” Si que quieres” so I told him about our chair and checked the location. Something may well happen before I get here, but we live in hope.

On one of my previous wanderings I had found another opening full of furniture, so I wandered in for a good look around, nothing here I fancied so with a cheery wave I past the men at the door and left. Today, being Saturday it was shut up the sign on the door said “Fernandez Y Hermanos, Mundanzas y Guardar”. So I had been looking for furniture in Fernandez and Brothers removals and storage depot. At home somebody would have asked me what I wanted in there, not here, they just leave you to it.

I wandered around Plaza Almagro as I was passing. On a Saturday the locals all set up store here and sell anything that they have, sort of boot sale without a car. You simply would not believe the things they sell. There was a water-cooler without the cooler and even a no-weld plastic 30mm bend, why would anyone come here looking for that? Still it entertains me.

We found out that the organizer of El Arranque is now running a milonga at Club Gricel so we are off there today in the hope of meeting up again with the old crowd. The lady on the door welcomed us with the lowest entrada yet and asked if this was our first time. I said that it was but we used to go to El Arranque. She said that they have been here since September, time enough to get things going.

It all seemed a bit flat though. True the old couples were there and causing a riot in the bit in the middle, but few of the old singles were there. I danced mainly with foreigners and so did Viv. I have never been to a milonga where I have danced with so many ladies on numerous occasions. We decided to call it a day at six thirty and head for home.

There was no sign of the man himself, but when the interval came with the announcements she said “Juan Carlos esta mejorando” so if he is getting better, I suppose he must be ill. I have checked his page and there is no mention, although there is talk of him loosing weight.

We thought about walking but when I realized we were eleven blocks for Rivadavia and five from Columbres, well twenty-four blocks was too much, so we took to the subte. Trouble was, when we got there, there was no way in. It seems that H line entrances are closed on Saturday, so we had to back track onto the E line just to get below. Viv was right annoyed from all the up and downing by the time we got on the train.

Time for some cervesa negra I think.

 

Leave a comment

Filed under Argentina

Something new It seems

For our Monday milonga we are off to El Beso again. Don’t be confused, even though it is the same venue it is a different milonga. Friday was el Abrazo with Mario Orlando on the decks, today it is Misteriosa with a guy called Quique Camargo.

It started of badly for Viv, she was not getting many dances. Actually non apart from me and Hubert. Later though many of her old friends arrived and by six she was dancing non stop. I too struggled at first, as I have said it is not the easiest of rooms but soon I was in my swing.

Graciella arrived to her usual fanfare and I soon had her up dancing. My big problem though was that I was surrounded by predators, it is hard to cabeceo past these ladies. There were other ladies I wanted to dance with, Marta who I have not seen yet here and the Columbian lady.  Still it keeps me on my toes.

The DJ was having some fun too, when the lady in front of me pounced, I said “depends on the music” and the next tanda was totally off the wall. This was a first for me here in Buenos Aires. Normally it is very traditional. Later he played a Tanda by Orquesta Tipica Misteriosa. Something new not at all what we expect.

After she had danced with “Ron Dennis” Viv was ready for home. Her best dance of the night she said, no point in staying if it was not going to be topped.

We walked back, not wanting to get stuck on the rush hour subte again. Back to the rest of that steak.

 

 

 

Leave a comment

Filed under Tango

Back to El Beso

Another quiet morning, Viv sent me out shopping. I topped up my Argentine phone then bought some provisions and some mince.  AR$45 a pound scandalous. That’s £1.68 to you at home.

Then it was out to El Beso. Always a difficult floor this, not the best layout with a pillar in the middle, but at least the floor itself is in good condition. A few years ago they completely recovered it in wood, unlike Nuevo Chique where I literally stopped and replaced a section of parquet.

I had some good dances but cabeceo is near impossible here, I have to walk up to the ladies, or in the case of the ones in front of me, tap them on the shoulder. Viv was not getting a lot of dances, she just cannot compete with semi nude nymphets. It never ceases to amaze me that men will put up with an awful dance, just to dance with someone scantily clad. “Bobs getting old” I hear you say, but who has the best view, The man dancing with her or me from the side lines? and while I am dancing with a more experienced lady I am not getting my feet trodden on.

I danced again with Susanna she appears and disappears but never for long. She dropped a bombshell, she told me that she is Jewish. That did not surprise me, there is a very high percentage of Jewish people here and the Once district is almost exclusively. No the bombshell is that she is going to Israel  on Monday for two years, maybe permanently. I had a last dance with her later, A D’Sarli milonga. I wished her well for the future and told her I will miss her.

I noticed another lady having  problems getting dances and decided to dance with her, but Viv whisked me out before I had chance, she had enough. Before I left I called Zoraida a Buja, because, apparently she had seen a picture of us and the next day we appeared.

Made an error coming home, forgot about the rush hour. We should have walked, the subte was packed out. You keep your hands low near your wallet for security. but the pushing together means you come in contact with various body parts. From this close there is no telling what they are.

Leave a comment

Filed under Tango

Guilty shopping

On my way out shopping today I bumped into the guy from the fruit shop around the corner. He greeted me like an old friend, made me feel quite guilty. You see I now buy my fruit from the chino opposite. It is close and he always picks out the best fruit for us and will often reject something I have picked out as not good enough. This morning though Viv wanted some chop suey, which he did not have.  He watched me as I shopped in the chino so I had to buy my fruit off him. Then I had to conceal my fruit as I went to the next fruit shop, which had chop suey. Life is never this difficult when you just go to Tesco.

It started to rain as we set off for Nuevo Chique so we decided to get a bit closer on the subte. Viv was not too keen on the two changes needed if we used the H line, so we headed into town and used the C line. This would have been Ok if it were not  for the crowds, we were all but locked down by them. The change at Pelerini took an age and when we got off at Plaza de Mayo it was packed. I did not know how to get to Lima station and we emerged in the middle of 5 Mayo. The bodies were just a mass, we were in the middle of a demonstration and I just could not navigate. By the time I had worked my way out of it, then consulted the map, Viv rightly said we could have walked from home.

It was a time for last dances and saying goodbye. We actually stayed longer than ever and I even got a glass of Champagne from Dora, but we are happy in the knowledge that we will be back next year. We had a funny conversation with Marcella before we left; She asked why we were all leaving at the same time, I told her it was Macri’s fault, he will only let us stay 90 days. “Macri Gato” she jokingly said. I told her that that was the contraseña for El Revolucionario WiFi.

Then it was off to El Revolucionario for some beer and hamburgers. The place was crowded out due to the demonstration and the service was somewhat lacking. Again I have to say great food and beer for less than £15. Just one problem today, for the first time, they overcharged me by 100$ar. I don’t know if it was deliberate or not, but now I have a better grasp, I challenged it and my money was soon returned.

We will not be back this year, but I live in hope it was a genuine mistake, because we have enjoyed this place and would hate for it to be tainted.

 

Leave a comment

Filed under Argentina, milonga, Tango

You gotta love it

And another from last year. Oh dear!

After a morning on computer management, it was going to be a welcome change to do some tango.

Saturday and we are off to El Arranque again. We had to charge up the SUBE cards and, of course we missed the train. It was no big deal though another was along in four minutes. This is another reason I prefer the subte to the busses, unless the line is down they are through as regular as clock work.

Our waiter had our regular places and our drinks on the table as we arrived, you gotta love this service.

Not a lot to say really, we danced our socks off and I managed two dances each with my regular ladies. Even  Viv hardly missed a tanda.

Erwin our usual DJ was not here today we had Vivi La Falce instead. Good choice of music and interesting cortinas. She was calling something out during the tropical, I have no idea what it was, but the locals seemed to appreciate it.

We had arrived early so by seven thirty we were ready to go. We stayed for the sorteo, but again I did not win, so it was time to go home.

We stopped off on the way home for some meat. We had to do without last week because we left it until Sunday. Two cracking pieces of Aberdeen Angus grilling steak, for two quid, you gotta love it.

Deep joy, the internet is still working, so you will get this post.

Leave a comment

Filed under Tango

New best Empanadas in Buenos Aires

We travelled out to Flores today to have lunch at Maggies and were joined by Mimi, Semiha, Hubert and Paloma. The first thing I had to do was take stick from our French friends for the Rugby. Of course they bribed the referee, how else do you explain that ending? The mood was light hearted though.

Language soon defaulted to Spanish, and we learned why Paloma is so good at it, she has Spanish parents and the household language is Spanish. So we have no hope of competing there then.  It seems everyone is better at it than us, even Viv seems to understand more than she admits. Still it was unfair that she was put in a class with Semiha, who is better than me even though I was in the higher class.

We had some tuna and anchovies in cream sauce, I never thought Viv would eat it but she did and enjoyed it. Still surprising me after all these years. Yesterday I said I had the best empanadas in Buenos Aires, well that was before I had Maggies home made ones. I have to review my opinions now.

We drank a lot of vino tinto and champagne after and during the food, but it’s OK I don’t have to drive the train back. When half five came we were ready for the off. I can take Spanish at this level for a while but for this long I find it exhausting. It is a shame I cannot have an hour a day then I might improve, but after two hours my brain switches off and nothing computes any more. We were helped, of course, by Mimi Maggie and Hubert, but even so my brain can only take so much. Still we had a great time and good company even a little dancing.

It took us over an hour to get there and I said “Instead of taking the subte all the way back, let’s get off at Castro Barras and walk” so we did. The total journey time was less than half an hour. Let the legs take the strain I say.

As we walked to Fulgor tonight we saw a guy sitting in a doorway changing his shoes. I thought it strange, but when he came in he seemed to know everyone. Turns out he was an American Named Richard, he was later joined by a German named Ute. They danced very well unlike the tall couple who were also there. They took giant leaps around the floor, never looking where they were going, too intent on their feet.

I got Bebe up for a dance and spent most of the time trying to avoid the tall hazard. I said to Bebe that when I first came here, I had to audition for Roberto in order to be allowed into the Club. Standards have dropped now, it seems. I suppose this is understandable as the numbers here are nothing like they were  in 2008. In those days if you were not early and had no reserva, you would not get a seat.

The place has definitely lost some sparkle, the music of Ruben does not help, but I think that many of the old regulars are either dead or too unfit to come now. Tonight we did not sparkle either, we left at ten thirty.  Let’s hope we feel better for our last couple of attendances.

 

Leave a comment

Filed under Argentina, milonga, Tango