Tag Archives: Santa fe

Polvo de Caro

This electric bill is causing problems way above it’s weight. The Coreo again has no power, I remember there being a hoo ha of astronomic proportions at home when the Post Office was shut for one afternoon, here it has been shut for three days now because of a power cut and no one seems that bothered.
I eventually found a PagoFacil but the sign on the door said something of the order “Pay your bills of $40 or more here” mine of course is only $34 so I guess that is out.
Viv needed some face powder and as we were unsuccessful finding Avon se wanted to try the Abasto Centre. We passed Banco Frances and I said she should draw more money, she then dropped the bombshell that she had not brought her card with her.
Needless to say there was nothing in The Abasto at a sensible price so we had to walk back to our apartment again to retrieve her card.
There was little point in going back again so we took the subte to Pueyrredon. Line H is not finished yet and so we could not link here to Santa fe so we got out and walked. Now anyone who has ever used a subte will understand how you can get disoriented when you surface.
We walked along Pueyrredon, I thought and stopped at an HSBC. The Atm refused to give Viv any money. Annoyed I took her card and protested to a member of staff. Fortunately his English was far better than my Spanish, but his understanding of their system was no better than mine. After he tried two machines he gave up and said that there is a Banco Frances two blocks further on.
Again there was no trouble here, I am going to have serious words with my bank when I get home.
When we came out of the bank, to my consternation, I saw a subte sign. “That should not be here on Pueyrredon” I thought. It was at this point I realised we had walked down Corrientes instead and were just following the subte route instead of walking across towards Santa fe.
Time was now too short so we decided to head straight for the school and our asado. We stopped at a kiosco for some drinks and caused chaos, because the fridge was in the doorway and no one could get passed as we tried to decide what to have. The Guy kept shouting “Abri la porta” at me, and queues were forming inside and out.
Eventually we arrived with our precious drinks at about quarter to one, in plenty of time. We spent a pleasant, if somewhat hot hour and a half, on the roof. Eating a range of meats and guzzling down our drinks. Like everyone else we spent most of the time looking for shadows to hide in, from the sun.
My carnivorous lusts sated, we headed off again down Santa fe, in the sun. It doesn’t make good blogging but we found Avon and Viv was able to choose her powder from a catalogue. Apart from the meagre size everything went well.
It was now a bit of a trek home but we found an Ice Cream shop on Cordoba just before Billinghurst. Only Five or so blocks, then we can have a siesta.
As we rush down to the bus stop we see first one 168 pulling away, then another arrived, but our rush to catch it was in vain. There was no way he was stopping.
So when the next one finally arrives, Viv told me she did not have her SUBE card with her. I had enough on my card for three journeys, not enough for four. I was mad this meant we would probably have to walk home.
Obalisco is very busy on a Friday. From my seat it was very difficult to get dances and I usually had to wait until the first track was almost over to get a dance. I could not see Viv at all from where I was and she also did rather badly. To top it all I never managed to attract the waitress and sat there all night without a drink.
When we finally left, we started to walk along Entre Rios and then I saw a Locotorio with a SUBE sign on it. I never expected to be able to charge my card up this late at night.
Of course, as we left a 151 went past. He was stopped for some time but the stop was too far for us to reach in time.
After a while I noticed that there was another stop for the 168/90, so thinking that busses are infrequent this time of night we stood there. Then a 151 flew past, I tried to stop him, but he was going like he had a rocket up his arse.
As there was a queue at this stop we thought it best to wait nearer the 151 stop and eventually another 151 came along.
It was with some relief that we finally arrived outside our door.

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Callao

For gringos pronounced Cash ow.

What I love about this city is that despite having come here eight times now, it still has the capacity to make me stand back and say wow! and surprise me.

Early risers today we were out the flat by eleven, Viv had even been out to  5aSec for the laundry.

We walked down to Scalabrini y Santa Fe where there was a shop she wanted to look in, unfortunately there was nothing there she wanted, and so as always at times like this we went for a coffee. Viv remembered she was supposed to be going shopping with Janis, so we phoned to cancel. The weather was improving and I think winter coats were the last thing on her mind.

We caught the subte at Scalabrini and got off at Callao. We were looking for El Ateneo, but were on the wrong street, there is a beautiful building just two blocks from the subte on Cordoba , someone asked us what it was, we just said  “no se”. Anyone know what it is?, it looked like some sort of university or technical school.

We walked down Callao and turned into Santa Fe just up from the corner was the entrance to El Ateneo. What we saw is hard to describe, it is an old theatre which is now a book shop. They have not destroyed the interior, only removed some walls, so that as you walk in you are confronted with the auditorium and as you pass into it you are surrounded by all the balconies and boxes. The stage area is set out as a cafe with the stage lighting still in place. In the centre of the stalls is an escalator down to the pits where the children’s section is. We stood in the middle and just said “wow” No photos could do this justice, it is simply the one place any visitor should see. The Guardian did a survey of all the worlds book shops and this was voted second best in the world, the best I have GOT to see.

Unlike so many old buildings the whole character has been maintained. It has a whole new life, but all it’s former glory is maintained.

We walked back along  Callao as we wanted to look in some other record shops before we decide what music to bring home.

Isee they have a new way of employing people here; there is a whole army of people putting posters on lampposts. So what is so different? well they also have another army following with buckets and scrapers cleaning them off again.

Along the way it is worth looking up to see the beautiful sky line, and the many copulas that still survive.

Gloria Garcia again welcomed us to Plaza Bohemia, sadly the numbers were very down. This was a shame because we were treated to a wonderful session from the Tango singer Luis DeRosa, I think Gloria kept him singing to liven up the evening, but we enjoyed it no end.

Luis DeRosa

Luis DeRosa

We had a short chat with him afterwards and like many he was surprised to meet tango dancers from Wales. I tried to explain as best I could how hard it is to find tango in Wales and how much we have to travel. (that is why I am a Frustrated milonguero)

I had a bus route worked out for the way home, but when we saw the bus we needed disappear, well there were so many taxis.

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Filed under Argentina, Dance Venues and Schools, milonga, Uncategorized