Tag Archives: Los Galeses

San Telmo

You have to do it once, well for me once per trip. San Telmo is a must for the tourists, but it gets a bit passé after a while. We came down on the 24 Collectivo because the B subte is still not running on the weekend. Then we got off in Bolivar and walked to Plaza Dorrego. The place is still full of tat and the tango dancers, and puppet shows, but we dutifully scanned all the stalls.
Then we headed off down Defensa and the street is lined all the way to Plaza de Mayo with more stalls. It seems if you write Tango on it, you can sell any rubbish. This place has nothing to do with real Argentina and there are more Janquis than Argentines here. Still it kept us entertained for a couple of hours.
The trouble is we had walked so far my bus plan was no longer going to work. We crossed 9 Julio and into Sarmiento. There was no sign of a 24 parada, but a 124 was coming. It said on the sign Bulnes, then Potosi. That meant it had to pass Plaza Almagro so we jumped on. The bus turned along Pueyrredon and up Peron so we had an extra block to walk, but I still congratulated myself for having worked that bus route out.
It is Sunday night, so it must be Fulgor again. Elsa and Bob are back but the numbers are otherwise down, I am not really sure why. Elsa is a real live wire and poor old Bob never gets a rest. We seem to be getting on better now with the big guy, not sure what his name is. We made a bad start, as I misunderstood him in the early days. I think he is warming to us again now though.
When Roberto made the announcements, he made reference to los galeses chacarera and everyone clapped. That was nice, but he mentioned the war again, I think we got away with it this time though.
Despite the low numbers I never won the sorteo, so I had to make do with my stout. We were ready to go by half eleven, as most of the others had filtered away. Still it was, as usual, a good Fulgor night.

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Filed under Argentina, Tango

The Argentine way

It’s a beautiful day, and there is no sign of Viv getting up, so I have some breakfast leave her my mobile and go for a walk.

This barrio is a maze of streets and even though we have walked for miles I doubt we have seen half of it. My first stop however is Jumbo where we have been often. There is a sign outside that says pagofacil and I want to pay the electric bill. At the kiosco there is a boy behind the counter with a guitar. He is staring at the strings, perhaps in some way he thinks if he looks at them long enough they will show him how to play, but I must interrupt his study,”Puedo pagar es aca” I said, he looked at me like I was some sort of lunatic “la maquina no funcionada” he said, then went back to staring at the guitar, which also seemed to have some problem functioning. Though I love this place I still have trouble dealing with the Argentine way, “no pasa nada”, things do matter especially when you are here only a short time.

After returning Viv was now up and about we decided to go for another walk.

Another of Buenos Aires beautiful plaza is Plaza Miserere right by El Once railway station and bus station. We watched the antics of a big moma as she touted for business,in broad daylight, the children pseudo splashing in the empty fountains,and the buskers hopefully watching every stranger expecting some change, it was all happening here.

The sun starts to fall early here, so around four we headed back via Sarimiento, Viv wanted some flowers, and I know they can be bought here. Janis complained she could not get fresh rosemary here, so when I saw a plant by the station I thought I must buy it, another case of it finding me. I like this attitude of Sally’s Carlos.

So as we walked home we bought fresh salad items, then a bunch of flowers, phoned Janis and bought a prepared meal from our local panaderia, total cost, less than £6, inflation may have hit hard here but if you stick with local produce, and the colectivos, you can still live very cheap.

Talking of colectivos, we used one again to go to Janis’s, we were going from her place to Lo de Celia. I have not been there since 2004, I don’t know why, it just never seemed to be in our circle.

Next door to Janis’s place is a new tango venue, we know little of it, so when the patron came out Janis probed him for some time. Most of what they said passed me by, as my spanish is still not quick enough, but we did work out that they have dancing there on a Thursday and early classes.

In Lo de Celia the old problems with change cropped up, Janis said when we arrive early we should have change, this I knew, but I had spent almost the whole day trying to get people to give me change. The situation here does not get any better.

The floor in Lo de Celia is ceramic, but I like the way there is a line about half a metre in from the edge, it makes lane discipline a little easier. In general the lane discipline is very good, although there was one clown who was all over the floor (he thought he was the best there). So even though it got quite crowded in general it was not difficult to dance.

As usual, when out with Janis we danced a lot less than usual, we discussed the music, who were the good dancers and generally enjoyed each others company. We were suposed to sit separately so Viv could dance with different men, but at he last moment chickened out. Viv is happy to dance with me, so long as she thinks I am the best not much else matters.

We met our tango singer again (Luis De Rosa) and had a short conversation with him. I am afraid my only contribution was “no entiendo nada” but thinking about it afterwards I think he said something like, I wander all over this land and I keep bumping into you. It was either that or, you dance like idiots, easy to mix up.

We met more people at the door when we left, every one is keen to meet Los Galeses, before Janis put us on the bus home. This time it passed right by our building, even though it was the same number as last time, it passes five block closer. Is it any wonder I have problems working them out?

One thing before I finish; Janis like others here complains my lead is not strong enough. This is the result of the English way “you must invite the woman”, forgive me if my quote is not perfect but she says; on the floor I like to be in a strong embrace, and led so that I do not have to think about it at all.  I add this for those at home who think my lead is too strong and I hold too close.


Filed under Argentina, Dance Venues and Schools, milonga