We were up quite late today. It was going to be a long night and we had intended to have a siesta, but there was now not much point. I had a few small shopping forays to do, but not a lot else.
Viv suggested I take her shoes to the feria Americana, as it would give me a bit of a walk. So I headed off, bag in hand, down Lavalle. At the feria, the woman looked at Vivs shoes and said “Son lindos pero tengo un monton. No quiero”. So that was it, she had too many women’s shoes already and wanted no more.
So I walked back and bought us some provisions on the way. As luck would have it, the ropa lady called, so I gave her the shoes, which she was glad of.
We left a bit later for Fulgor this week, knowing it would be empty when we arrived. Sure enough, at almost nine, Norma was outside smoking and inside was deserted. It gradually filled, with each new arrival we had to stop our dancing and welcome them with a kiss. Mostly they come here just to socialize and have some pizza, so they never stay too long and the smell of pizza was getting to me, it got to Viv as well, because later we got the munchies. The numbers never passed thirteen again and we never had a sorteo, but that was ok because we all got a free beer again. I could get used to free beer.
We hung on as long as we could, but by quarter past eleven even Elsa and Bob were heading off, so we had to make a move.
It is not much of a walk from here to Armenia and La Viruta was not due to open until 11:30, so we expected that to be quiet too. Otros Aires were performing live with Joe Powers as well. Knowing how things work here we expected nothing to happen until at least two in the morning.
Downstairs in Viruta it was chaos, the dance class from upstairs were coming down same time as us and there were hundreds already inside. Lots of arm wrestling and flying heals, the young trying to impress everyone but their partners. We could see no organisers and people were putting their own chairs out. Viv walked through and. towards the bar, this was not going to work. I dragged her back to the entrance. I saw one guy who was setting up tables “Tienes dos sillas?” I asked, “tiene reserva?” he asked in reply “Si” I lied. So he pointed us to a table next to the dance floor and close to the stage, with two seats.
Otros Aires came on at midnight, the flyer said 11:30, this is punctuality Argentine style, far earlier than we expected. We danced the first two milongas, but it was manic. Otros aires is always thus but the chaotic floor made my life very difficult, so we decided to sit and listen for a while, anyway it was nice to relax with a black beer. We got up once or twice during the set, but generally we were happy just to listen and enjoy.
We were impressed with Joe Powers, he obviously does not always play with Otros Aires and was playing directly from sheet music. Quite a feet, live on stage.
There is no waiter service here so you have to go up to the bar. We had got the munchies by now but they only had pizza or full menus, all we really wanted was an empanada. By one o’clock the set was over and I got a chance to say hello to Miguel and buy a CD. He remembered Prestiegne, but we did not have much time to talk, people were lined up behind us, so I said chau and we set off into the night.
The city that never sleeps, always seems comatose when we are hungry. The burger bar opposite Viruta was shuttered up, so we walked to the eighties bar on Julien Alverez. “La cocina es cerado” the guy said, so we just used the toilets and left. This was a mistake as someone had left gum on the floor and now Viv was sticking to the pavement everywhere.
We tried the garage on Cordoba, they had a wide range of Cheese and Onion sandwiches, but no empanadas. Nothing was open anywhere. Then we saw the Garage that runs through from Cordoba to Estado de Isreal, the sign said “Abiert 24horas” so we tried it. Success, so we sat at two in the morning eating empanadas with all the taxi drivers, watching English TV with Spanish subtitles.