Tag Archives: Galizano

Galizano to Noja

We set out early again in slightly damp weather but not full rain. We stopped at the end of the cycle path(we had no intention of following it this time) there are seats there and a designated rest area. We had cold coffee and garlic bread from the supermarket, so we managed a breakfast of sorts.

Shortly after Galizano the route splits, it leaves the CA141 and goes south on the CA443. We are not going to Guemes and not really on the Camino now, so we stuck to the CA141.  I hated that route on the both times we have done it, it just dragged and had nothing of interest apart from the Camping los Molinos. The camping was too close to stop so we had no reason to go that way and we could save ourselves 3.5k.

We were on our final turn towards Noja before we got coffee. Funny bar this it had a small room attached which was a tobacconist. So people were coming in for their cigarettes taking away the lady who was supposed to be serving us. A couple came and sat outside with the cutest dog you have ever seen, it looked to us like it had dreadlocks. We called it a Rastadog.

We saw few pilgrims today but we did get some help just outside Noja when we needed it most. We stopped for a coke on the way in at the place we had eaten last time. Two cokes they charged me 3.60euro, so we would not be going back later.

We started looking for accommodation on the way in but were having little luck. I suspected that Hostal Virginia would be full this far in the season. As it turned out I was wrong, they had one room vacated that day the guy said. It was changeover day so we sat outside with a beer while we waited for the room. I had asked if we could stay two nights, so when the owner arrived (we had spoken to his son) he cancelled the room we had been offered and got us a bigger one. I think he was surprised to see us sitting outside drinking beer just like the last time he had seen us about six weeks ago.

We went into town to find a bar to watch the Grand Prix. I found a bar and we sat there and had a beer. I asked for pinchos as we were hungry. The guy said we don’t have pinchos but you can have some cheese or ham and bread. As Viv does not like uncooked cheese we asked for both. The staff changed while we watched the race and when we asked for the bill it was 41euros. I was annoyed and was not going to pay but Viv did not want a scene. It put a damper on my whole day. When we went across the square for an Ice Cream I could not face one, not like me to deny myself, but I was just too annoyed.

We had breakfast in a local café and it cost  4euro each, but the guy charged me 10 because that was how much the items came to individually. I was not having this and pointed to the menu outside, made him give me 2euro back.

There is a fountain in the square, a paved area with the jets coming out between the flags. The weather is hotter now and the local kids were all playing in the spray. We ate in the square salad and empanadas from the supermarket, had enough of being ripped off .

We walked around the coast towards Ris. Not very friendly here with fences right up to the cliff edge and no admittance signs. We found a large village green with a bar in the middle. It was hot so we had cokes, then an ice cream, before we walked back.

Signs of erosion here and a village lost to the sea. The tide was now in and one of the old buildings had now formed a pool that seemed very popular with local Kids. They had floated a large log inside as a means to get out of the water, as the walls were otherwise too high.

We booked tomorrows breakfast in the Hostal for tomorrow, it is only 4euro. Not a long walk tomorrow so we can start a bit later.

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Santillana del Mar to Galizano

I thought that we should leave Santillana by going down through the village,  the GPS had other ideas. For once the GPS was actually taking us along the Camino route, so we were  ok with it. We looped under and over the main road, unable to join because of the way the junctions worked. Eventually joining it by a roundabout. We were now on the route that the Spanish guy had tried to get us to follow. There was an incredible amount of places to stay along here, mainly Posadas. We eventually found coffee at a place called Oruña. A busy bar full of game machines and TVs. There was also an albergue here as well, funny that again there is no mention of this place in the book.

Not much further on is Barreda. We had intended to walk to Requejada less than 2k further on, but there was a big station here so we decided to get the train from here. The walk from Requejada to Santander is boring and mostly industrial and as we have done this twice before I thought we would take the train. It cost us 5.4euro for basically a days walking, so why not?

While we were at the station we did see a pilgrim get off the train from Santander. Not really the done thing if you are going for a Compostella. While we were on the train the rain came in and it was hammering down by the time we got to Santander. I had blown any chance of using the albergue in town and again the tourist information was useless. So we wandered around with the map, by the third complet we were ready to give up. Some guy helped us and took us to another pension, trouble was, that too was complet.

In the rain we took the ferry to Somo. There we stopped for an egg bacon and cheese butty. We may have left puddles everywhere but that butty was great. There were a few places in Somo but the prices were just too high for us so we moved on. We followed the road for a while, then headed towards the coast, following signs for a camp site, but the campsite had no chalets and we moved on. We got a bit lost here, neither on the coastal path or the main road. Fortunately this was not a long day so I was not too bothered.

Viv would not go to the albergue at Guemes so we stopped again at Galizano. The room did not seem as bad as last time, whether that was because our expectations were lower or it was just a better room, I don’t know. Unusually the price here had not gone up with the season but we still had no shower curtain.

We sat in La Biela 43 drinking beers and watching the formula one quali  but not food until ocho again. The burger La Biela was a meal in itself but I would have enjoyed it more if I had it earlier.

There had been an article in the papers about a woman complaining about too many Spaniards in Benidorm. By the time we had our burgers I knew exactly how she felt, the place was full of children running around and their noisy parents. It is as well we go to bed early when we are walking, but we could still hear them from our room.

 

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Galizano to Santander

Last time we took the road route but as we are trying to do things differently we decided to take the longer coastal route and stay in Santander. We had some pan chocolate and chilled coffee, so as soon as we crossed the road we stopped at the junction of the cycle route where there was arrest stop.

We now proceeded to walk backwards along the camino route along the cycle path back into the centre of Galizano. From here it was possible to pick up the camino to the coast. A lot of up and down here but the views were worth the effort. We came across a surfing beach Playa de Langre. There were people camping there and a few vans on the top. We stopped to watch a couple of guys on boards then set off again.

When we got to Playa Tranquilas we stopped again for a rest and to admire the view. Here we were finally caught up by those who had stopped in Guemes and soon there were not enough seats left so we left them to it and carried on.

We left the beach too soon, I think, but we soon came across a surf café. Because we had tarried it was now full and it was now raining so we struggled to find a seat in the end we were barely out of the rain so we did not stop long.

Then we walked across the promontory to the ferry. Timing was bad as usual we had just missed one but they are every half hour and we had time on our hands. It is an enjoyable trip across the bay but the rain made boarding and alighting uncomfortable. Our first call was the tourist information, and we came across the main problem with them for the first time: ” we cannot recommend anywhere to stay, but here is a map showing all the hostals” There is also another problem, few streets heave signs on them and fewer still on the map are labelled. It made navigating difficult. When we eventually found a Hostal it was complet. Across the road was another and we got  in, only to find it was an abergue and at 25euros a head, not cheap.

Still we were here now and there was a laundrette on the corner. We found Hotel Picos de Europa which served food at any time, I enquired about staying here on our return but it was far too expensive.

Playa de Galizano

Campers on the hillside

Surfers

Wipeout

Santander from across the bay

Isla de Santa Marina

Isla de Santa Marina

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Noja to Galizano

We left our comfortable room into a cool morning, but as usual, nothing was open. Just like last time we found this a long and dreary stage, Viv was determined not to stop at Guemes Albergue, we knew that we could not get food there until the evening meal, we also knew that food stops are rare on this stage. So when we passed Camping Las Molinas we went up to check it out. They came across with coffees and the usual cake. We have to be thankful for what we get. We met a dutch couple who also intended to stay at Galizano, so that gave us some hope.

We missed the Albergue by about half a kilometre but then found we could have avoided that route altogether if we had headed directly for Guemes. Maybe on the way back we can take the shortcut. At the crossroad in Galizano we found a nice little supermarket so we stopped for some yogurt and juice and more cake. I think perhaps Marie Antoinette had spent time in Spain “Let them eat cake” well that is often all there is here.

In Galizano there was a four star hotel but nothing else. A guy in the local bar sent us down the road to Hostal Isabel. Abit of a dump with no shower curtain and 50 euros a night. Beggars can’t be choosers, so we stayed.

We walked back to the bar for some beer and nachos, again no food until eight. It was good enough when we got it. La Biela just below our hostal where the tables are made from old mopeds and bikes. There was definitely a moto theme going on here. We had their Biela burger which was quite a meal and enjoyable, I just wish we did not have to wait so late. Then the whole place became a bit too Spanish; I know that Spaniards are very into family, but it was just too noisy for us. We finished up in the garden, fortunately it was too fresh for them out there.

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