Noja to Laredo

We had a good breakfast in Hostal Virginia, but as always that put us late. We did not leave until 9:30 and it was again hammering down.

We took the footpath that passes in front of the Hostal rather than the walk across the wet grass. The beach path however was flooded, there was just no avoiding it in these conditions. We followed the road behind the beach as far as the albergue where the GPS showed a path through to the road.

When we got there the gate was locked and it said something about submarines or submariners. So we were left with no alternative but to take the cliff walk. The rocky parts where we climbed up were treacherous and slippy with narrow parts where people who were going the right way were trying to pass. Over the other side it was mud. My boots got no purchase in the gloop and my poles were all but useless as the rubber ends just skidded across the top.

When we finally got down on the other side there was a downspout on the surf bar and we used it to wash off the mud. We sat outside the bar in the rain because we were made to feel most unwelcome. Whether it was the mud, the rain, or the fact that we were not surfers I don’t know, but we were glad to leave.

It was a long drag into Santoña past the prison and all the appartments. The ferry was almost empty, for our return trip. There were many pilgrims coming our way, but few people returning at this hour. It is another long drag of about 5k into Laredo so we stopped at a frozen yogurt stall. In this weather at least we did not have to queue. (looking on the bright side here, we were cold and wet, but no crowds).

I found our cheap hotel back and again I was wrong. I thought, it looks so bad from the outside that it would never get full. It was.

We found Pension Tucan across the road and it was only 45e. The patron told us it would be sunny tomorrow, but was unable to tell us if we could stay another night. Our missing Santander and the last couple of stops on the Primativo, means we are running ahead of schedule. We do not want to be staying a week in Bilbao so we need to delay.

The launderette was packed out. Many were in just to dry their clothes but we had to wait an hour for a machine. We waited in a bar opposite which was doing great trade on the back of the washing queues.

We found a Telepizza, the first we have come across so we went there later for food. A group of Germans were there obviously for the cheep beer. Unfortunately they had drunk it all and we had to have soft drinks with our pizza.

We finally got agreement we could stay another night so we had a lay in, in the morning. We found a bar under our hostal ( not as obvious as it sounds, as the entrance door is around the corner). It was still pouring down so we stayed for another coffee. There was a book ferria on the front so Viv bought herself a couple of books, in English 7e for two.

We took them back and finally caught our woman and paid for our stay. She said “mañana hace sol” I thought “I’ve heard that before” and we went out looking for frozen yogurt again. It seems in Spain, when the sun comes out, ice cream and frozen yogurt vendors go in. Our search failed.

We found a nice panaderia and bought a pizza thing and some mantxs. We thought it was a type of pasty but it turned out to be quite sweet. It was more like a flapjack than the meat thing we thought it would be.

We had a coffee by the beach and paid a premium for it. Still less than Chester prices though.

The bar where we had breakfast was serving food from seven, so we went back and had some platos combinados. Viv was not for having pizza again but it was nice to be so close and the golden beer, of course.

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