The camino trails right around the peninsula here, but as we had walked most of it on our day off there was little point in doing it again. So after stopping for some coffee we headed straight out on the road to Finisterre.
We walked for a while alongside the sea. On the opposite coast they were building a huge complex, possibly a hotel. The scenery here was stunning but this was just a blot on the landscape. I can’t help feeling that they could have made better use of Muxia itself and left the cliffs as a thing of beauty.
Once we reached the end of the bay we turned inland and thankfully missed the back of this construction. We were back in woodland now and the going was fairly good although there were some confusing waymarks. On this stretch there are waymarks for both directions, Muxia and Finisterre. The problem came when we saw one for Finisterre pointing the direction that we had come. Had this happened at a time we were tired it would have confused, luckily we were still fresh, so I ignored it and soon we passed more agreeable signage.
After about three hours we started to meet pilgrims coming the other way. My only conclusion was they must have stopped at Lires, because I could not believe that they had covered over 30k already today.
We passed through a place called Morquintian there was nothing there apart from a guy who was permanently camped in a lay by. He had a donativo table and cups of coffee. Not impressed with the hygiene standards we just had some fruit off him and a very fancy stamp.
Lires never lived up to its book description. There was no bar or shop, and we never even saw the alburgue, but then we were not looking. All there was, was a small hut with some vending machines. Not what we wanted at this time.
It was a long day with few places to stop, so we took advantage of every opportunity.
The book states that the only facilities on this route are in Lires but when we got to As Eiras we saw a sign for a bar. It was off route, but only a diversion not a full about turn. So we headed up and grabbed some coffee. While we sat outside a black camper van arrived with the lady from London and her husband. She was at great pains to explain how she had walked on to the bridge we had just crossed and her husband had brought her back. Sounded like a guilty conscience, because on the Camino nobody passes judgment. We all do it our own way she had no need to explain.
When we left we wished her well, knowing we would never meet again as she was going the opposite way to us.
When we found someone had put some chairs in their front garden, with drinks and biscuits, well we were in heaven for a while. Some woman came looking for water and left in a huff, when we looked there was a tap by the wall. A little patience would have rewarded her. We left a grateful donation and carried on.
We found only one other place before we got to Finisterre, someone had converted their double garage into a bar. It was blisteringly hot by now so it was beer time under the parasol. The garden was like a menagerie, there were budgerigars in cages, hamsters in one of those plastic homes they make and even turtles in a bowl. Of course there were cats and dogs as well. I don’t know how they coped with the heat though.
As we approached Finisterre we started to have problems with navigating, we would never get lost as there is, more or less, only one way in or out, but The GPS was showing 2.5k to destination for an awful long time. I don’t know what it was fixed on, but it did not get any closer even when we were in the town.
The hotel we stayed at last time was full as was every one we tried. We circumnavigated the town and dissected it, then went around again. Nothing. Then we were approached by a woman who had a private alburgue on the hill. We had no option but to go for it. It was not too bad only six beds in the room and each room had its own bathroom. Breakfast was also included.
Once we had settled it was time to go up to the lighthouse. On the walk up we meet again the Americans that we had met in Negreira, they were on their way down, hoping to go up again later. We have our picnic on the benches near the top and pass the 1000 kilometer mark getting there. I try to mark this with a photo, but I just cannot focus in and keep the display up on the GPS at the same time. Somehow, the our second coming has lost the magic and we do not stay too long. We intended to stay for sunset, but got bored just hanging around.
On the way down we met the Americans again who were on their way up to the lighthouse for the second time, I hope they enjoy the sunset. We had eaten our picnic so there was no need to find somewhere to eat tonight. So we just stopped off for a beer. Where we were sat I was amazed to see a Hotel flying the Welsh Flag, a first here, I think.
Then we had the problem of finding the alburgue again. It was in a back street behind a school, but which street. It took us so long that we decided that going out again was not a good idea. We also changed our minds about an extra day here and decided to move on in the morning.
I seem to get new readers every day, so for those who are just joining me you can go back to the start of my journey here; https://tangogales.wordpress.com/2016/07/31/the-journey-down-2/