In the morning we had to return to As Pias to return the keys, but as it was the only place open for breakfast and it was on our way, it was no hardship. We passed the pathway of granite obelisks, I still do not know the significance of these, and then turned left up the hill. There is some wonderful scenery here, but the early morning mist means we do not see it at its best.
We pass through a small hamlet and here there is another alburgue. We decide we are not far enough in yet so we do not stop. There is an information centre just before hospital and we stop to check in. “What country are you from?” she asks. “Wales, Gales” I tell her. “England?” “No Wales” “But that is England” “No, it is a country part of GB. You know, Gareth Bale” “England” she said. She would not move so I made her put GB on her form.
At Hospital we stopped for a coffee and as usual the woman there was adamant that we should buy more food “Nothing more for 15 kilometers” she says. Viv had a banana, but I had enough and we have stuff with us. Two girls we had met somewhere before Santiago were here, they had met on the Camino and were now splitting up. The Italian, who had left just as we arrived was going our way to Muxia, but the Chilean girl was heading straight for Finisterre. They both thought that the split was outside the bar but we knew it was a bit further on. Fortunately she had gone the right way, the camino path would rejoin the road around the corner anyway, just before the split.
At the split we stopped and took a photo, just for old times sake then continued along the road towards Dumbria. This is another 4k of dirt track and road until we arrive on the outskirts. It did not quite live up to the book though, there was only one bar and the groceries were in the back of the bar. We had to help ourselves and then summon the barmaid to get service.
The next place on the list was Senande, two bars it said. Well there were plenty of benches, never saw a bar. We stopped on a bench and ate the biscuits and yogurt we had bought. Soon all the benches were occupied with pilgrims, seems there is not much choice here.
With the descriptions in the book I expected to see a bar around every corner, but there were non. It was 27k of rugged country interspersed with hamlets. But not a one of them had a welcome sign or bar. As we approached the sea our hopes were raised first in Moraime, then San Martino and San Roque all seaside places but non had an open bar. There were beaches but no kiosks nothing.
We reached the outskirts of Muxia and a wide glorious beach, there at the end was a hut. It was just tourist information though and not manned, just a video on a loop. Around the corner and into the town proper we finally found a bar, I was not going any further without beer.
Next to the bar was a tourist office, they gave me a map and information about things to see, but for accommodation they were useless. We tried several they were either too dear or too full. As we came out of one full one I saw a German guy that I thought I knew (Viv reckons we did not, but we exchanged greetings anyway). He asked if we were looking for accommodation and told us of the old house he was staying in. There was some confusion as the lady of the house was not there, but we sat in the garden and waited. Soon enough we were installed in a cozy room with an enclosed balcony.
It was not all roses, however. Viv had lost her precious sponge bag. In it was her creams that we had spent many hours searching out her toothpaste and tooth brushes. The biggest disaster was the hypo allergenic soap, we did not think that would be replaceable here. I tried posting on facebook to see if anyone had found it. All I got was sarcasm from an American who could have no idea what this meant to us. So much for a site supposed to help pilgrims.
As well as all the facilities Casa Isolina also had a laundry service, well bag of laundry 5e, just do it. We also had a breakfast of sorts, just some cake and juice, but never the less an unexpected bonus.
We had another rest day here. Muxia is normally the end, but for us, well we still had a few days to go. We were unsure how many, but the end came quickly in less than a week, but that’s a story to come.
I seem to get new readers every day, so for those who are just joining me you can go back to the start of my journey here https://tangogales.wordpress.com/2016/07/31/the-journey-down-2/