Santiago to Negrera 21.2 kilometers

I knew where we could have breakfast this morning my memory serves me well, but just at the end of the street there was a bar open and one thing I have learned on the camino, never miss an opportunity.

There were a few people we knew already breakfasting here so we had good company as well. We sat at a table outside, it was dead level despite the path falling away at an alarming angle. Just time to test before our breakfast came; I turned the table around and sure enough it was nearly vertical. Best turn it back then. Inside granny (I think) was preparing octopus so outside I was staying. It was a sight too horrible to describe, and certainly too much before breakfast.

Progress out of town was rapid, I knew my way and there was no stopping us. It was clearer than last time we came this way, but there was still a morning chill. We followed various minor roads and kept up a good pace until we arrived at Ventosa. The bar here was just as I remembered it, we could sit outside under a canopy and the stamp was on a table at the back. Coffee and a pastry it was then.

From here we follow the road for a while with a couple of diversions that seem to add nothing to our journey. (Or take anything away for that matter).

Next we pass through Augapesada, I remember the Pharmacy  here, I bought some Ibuprofen. Viv decides to go in again and get some toothpaste. Everything here is in giant size except for the children’s toothpaste. To save carrying the extra weight we pass and continue on.

We follow more minor roads and start climbing, and continue climbing. The book makes light of this, but it was 2.5k of steep lung burning climb. There were resting places on the way and just like last time, there were many people who were unable to complete the climb in one go, resting and looking exhausted.

After another 1.5k we arrive at another bar. I thought that this was Ponte Maceira but that was nearly 2k further on. This is Trasmonte. Again this receives little comment in the book just (bar). A testament to how welcome this bar is, is the fact that not a seat is vacant.

2k later we arrive at Ponte Maceira, the book says “This may be the prettiest town on the whole camino” nice, but not that good. You do get medieval bridge jaded after a while, and I suspect that the best views are denied us because of the direction we walk. Across the bridge and we turn left up a narrow street until we arrive at an open area, where last time we sheltered in the bus stop.

RIMG0656 RIMG0657

We take more minor roads and pass through some small housing estates until finally we descend into Negreira. There are now a number of alburgue on the way down and the hospitalero from the one by the cow statue no longer chases custom down the street. Much has changed here.

We head straight for Hostal La Mesquita, my memory still serving me well. They still have rooms but now the second floor is an alburgue. We book breakfast as well this time. We have learned that when it is served early enough Hostal and Hotel breakfasts are great value for money here.

The local Gadis supermarket is a great place to get provisions and we get ourselves some prepared salad and yogurt for lunch also some provisions for tomorrows trek.  It is a fine day to just sit under the cow statue and have a light lunch.

Later we seek out Café bar Imperial where we know an English guy, married to a Galician woman runs it. I said it last time and make no apologies for repeating it again the best food on the camino.

I seem to get new readers every day, so for those who are just joining me you can go back to the start of my journey here



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