Melide to Arzua 14kilometers

Not a lot keeps me awake but Viv said that the music carried on until five o’clock. After our coffee and croissants we headed out pst the Irish pub and alburgue, once more on the road.

We pass the church and soon we are back on footpath again. Now I realize I am not the best person to give directions but these two looked confused, so I stopped to help. We assured them that they were on the right road and continued on our way. Soon we were together again so we talked as we walked. They were father and daughter from Australia. His son, also with them, likes to get up late, so would catch them up later.

We pass the Church at Boente and remember my experience with the cats here last time. We ate our lunch outside the Church and the cats tried to stare me down, but I was not giving up my food. No sign of the cats this time and we were through earlier, so no lunch stop.

Soon we pass another bar and stop for a coffee. Our Australian friends had not yet eaten and devoured a big breakfast. We had tarried too long here so we left them and carried on.

Some way down the road we passed through Ribadiso. This is where, on our last Camino, it was so hot we walked into the stream with our boots on. Not so hot this time, although it still looked inviting.  We walked with the Australians for a while until we came to a road. The Camino turned off to the left, but on the other side of the road was an alburgue and bar. We are within 3k of our final stop for tonight and a beer was too tempting, so we left them and crossed the road.

There was a pool where you could bathe your feet in the cold water. So we just sat there drinking and cooling off. Alburgue Milpes, not in the book, but well worth a stop. Unknown to us the route passed right by here and the left turn was a diversion to get safely across the road. After we had settled down and enjoyed the amenities, the Australians appeared, until then unwise to the shortcut we had taken.


We walked together for the next couple of kilometers until we got to the outskirts of Arzua, where they dived into the first alburgue. It was still some way into town and Viv was pancking about finding lodgings. Last time we were here we had problems, but I now knew where there are more hostals. In the centre of town I stopped for a street map at the tourist information. It was not yet two, but on the dot, the guy pulled the shutter down on me. Nothing, it seems, stands in the way of siesta.

Viv was not trusting my memory and insisted we stop at the first hotel, Hotel Arzua Casa Teodora. It was a bit pricy but we, at least had a bed this time and breakfast. Apparently all the noise last night was for Festival de Carmen, the patron saint of sailors and here they had a parade as well. We sat eating our lunch as the parade passed, then  jumped out of our skins as they set off fireworks.

Later we found a good place to eat and were joined by a few other pilgrims. Another menu pereguino and another full bottle of wine, rude not to finish it. When we walked out the centre had been transformed. While we had our backs turned they had closed off the street and built two sound stages. In front of them there was an orchestra playing. We stayed for a while listening and playing “Name That Tune” but there were no seats and our feet, already suffering, were being drawn by the hard concrete.

At least this event was not right outside out hotel, the road was closed stopping the traffic, so tonight we should get a good sleep.


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