A Fonsegrada to Cadavo Baleira 26.1kilometers

The walk out of the town is quite direct but when we arrive at the main road there is a diversion and deciding to follow the book we stick with the road. Trouble is which way? The filling station comes to the rescue again.

We follow the road for about 2k then turn off and start climbing steeply uphill again. The path then roughly follows the road and after another 4k we pass through Vilardongo. After this we turn again uphill on gravel and eventually we arrive at an opening, a clear grassy area and on our right is Hospital de Montouto. Considering it has not been used for maybe 90 years it is very neat and well kept. Only one building is complete with roof and on close inspection would be totally uninhabitable, but the courtyard is a pleasant place to sit and eat a bit of fruit and just rest for a while.


After another short up hill it is downhill from here to Paradavella. The “fantastic Bar” in the book never materialized, we had to travel another 5k to A Lastra before we got a welcome drink.

After another 7k we finally arrived in Cadavo Baleira or Lancara as it calls itself. First impressions were not good but eventually we found a center of sorts and even a bank. The machine here refused to accept my card and a girl stuck her head over the window “no funciona” she said “sera aproximente una hora”. Resigned myself to waiting but then found a Caixa Rural next door but one. I will not do that again, it limited me to 300e would not give me a balance and on top of everything else, charged me 3% commission.

A little further around we found the Hotel Moneda. Good room with a balcony so we could air some things and maybe tomorrow I would use a bit less deodorant. I took everything out of my bag and hung up what was not being washed, put the boots out and took out the insoles. While on the balcony airing the boots I saw Suzanna and Mikel going in the supermarket. We exchanged greetings again, but this would be the last time I saw them. It was a shame, they were the only ones we have consistently met with all the way from Irun.

We also took an opportunity to stock up for the next day and then went looking for food. There were a few bars on the next street but we went for the one that had a menu in the window. Same old standard dishes, same stock photos. By now I was expecting nothing, maybe just one or two things to be on the menu. “Que hay?” I asked “todo” he said.  “Hay ensalada verde?” “Si” This was too good to be true so we had a barbecue pizza and salad to share.

Again we meet Robert at meal times. We invite him over but he is quite happy to sit alone, but he enjoys his food and we are finished anyway.

Just shows though, you go to a big town and the food is abysmal, then come to a dump like this and hit the jackpot.


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