Llanes to Ribadesella 36.6kilometers

Non of the places in the square were open at this hour, nor was the bar where it said it was open at seven. There is no logic to Spanish time keeping. So we headed out-of-town. It was a not unpleasant walk, the buildings were a joy to view and when we cleared the town we soon left the road.

We rejoined the road and passed a campsite. There was a board outside that said there was an open bar. We did not hold out much hope, but walked in anyway. The bar looked closed but there was a passageway around the side. Nothing ventured we walked around and found magnificent views of the beach and a bar that was on the verge of opening. I think that the staff were having their breakfast as well, but they seemed happy enough to serve us. Their dog denied access, looked less happy, but never the less he did not protest.


This place was called Playa de Poo, apparently no reflection on the dog. We passed through Celorio, despite what the book said there was nothing here for us so we carried on along the road. We passed and re-passed another German guy as we took pictures of the enchanting Iglasia de Nuestra Señora de lo Dolores.  Our Lady of the pains, the mind boggles. After another 2k we passed the ruined monastery of St Antolin. We were disappointed here as for safety reasons it was completely fenced off. We passed another pretty beach area, but were kept from it by a wall. We were tempted by the bar but decided it was too much of a diversion. The German guy apparently did not and we never saw him again after this.

We passed through Nueva and found a bar here. We stopped and had a sort of reunion with the people from Guemes. There were some Germans, A Spanish lady who was deaf (we did not know until this point why she was having difficulty communicating, we thought she was French) and the Belgian doctor. She stayed rarely in alburgue but wild camped most of the way. I thought it very brave of a young beautiful woman to be camping out alone at night, but she had seen some sights that were denied those of us with less adventure.

Waymarking was poor here and on a couple of occasions we received directions from locals. At a place called Piñeres de Pria 2k further on we ended up in a dead-end. The old lady told us to go back and turn at the yellow house. Once back on the main road we had no further trouble though.

We arrived at Ribadesella and it was time for a drink. We relaxed knowing we were finished for the day. After we had rested we took the bridge across the river and started looking for somewhere to stay.

All we found were private houses, we saw another pilgrim wandering around and wondered again the wisdom of the books stage ends. We saw nowhere to stay, not even holiday lets. Eventually we cleared the town and already having walked more than 30k we were not happy.

After another 3k we came to a roundabout, just off it to the left was a campsite. When we tried to check in they asked if we had a tent. That had us worried, but no problem they had a chalet. We met an English couple, with a big tent, who were checking in at the same time. Funny how you can make friends so easily when the only thing you have in common is the same language.

The chalet was a bit rough, but it had beds for five cooking facilities and a bathroom. Back at reception they did food, well you could have a pizza. Pizza and beer it was then. Later I tried to buy some provisions at the “Shop” but this was just some shelves behind the kitchen in reception. I bought some biscuits and things some for tomorrow and some we ate now, as we were still hungry.


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