Santiago to Negreira
I will save our three days in Santiago for a later date as I am getting behind with my story.
We followed the road that rings the old quarter. There seemed little point in going through the centre again.
When we reached the junction to the road going out we saw a bar open and decided it would be best to get our coffee fix while we could.
Inside we ordered our coffee and spoke to the two ladies sat there. One was from the US and the other from Holland. They intended to make Finisterre in three days. I said as we left “we will see you when you pass us” we intended to take four days so it was bound to happen.
After we had passed the dance school (where we failed to find tango a day earlier) there was a junction. We took one side of the road, the two ladies the other. Their side was quicker “Ididn’t expect you to pass us that quickly” I said, as they passed us.
We descended out of Santiago and then we climbed again. At the top of the hill we had a wondeful last view of the Cathedral peeking out of the fog.
We were now a group of five; the two ladies we had met in the bar, Viv and I, and another girl, who we kept meeting all day, but found out nothing about her.
We did a lot of up and down but there were no rest places until Roxos, 8K in. We had coffee and a stamp and then carried on.
There was now 2.5k of tough uphill. It was relentless, we passed no end of pilgrims who simply had to stop for a rest, and when we stopped, those who managed to pass us also rested soon after. The solo girl we knew nothing about was resting on the hill. The group of chattering French women we thought we had lost were also there, all walkers needed to rest.
It was fairly easy downhill after this and uneventful until we got to Negreira. The first thing we saw was a beautiful roundabout with a concrete statue of a woman and two cows, on top of a water feature. The next thing we saw was a rather plump, short woman charging across the road at us “albergue aqui” she said pointing at her albergue. “Hostel” we said and carried on. She meanwhile charged off to the next pilgrim.
We found a hostel, we thought it rather expensive and declined the breakfast, but the room was beautiful, though a little short on hot water.
After we had showered and rested the rain came, proper Galician rain, thunder, lightening and a downpour like standing under a waterfall. We would not be going anywhere for a while.
When it did ease up we still had to dodge between the shops. Viv nearly got a swimsuit, but it was not to be. We got some provisions for tomorrow at the supermarket and we observed the short plum woman still chasing pilgrims.
We found a bar run by an Englishman and his Galician wife, and had one of the best pilgrim menues yet. Then off to bed ready for a big day tomorrow..
Santiago to Negreira