Day36 31st day walking

It was not the pretty way out of the hostel, but the road around the back seemed so much more attracive than those stairs again.
Once in the centre of the village we had no trouble finding coffee and zumo. We were off and away by quarter past seven.
This was all rough footpath again but we passed through many pretty little hamlets. Viv was not impressed with the ammount of cow muck everywhere though.
At San Xil we stopped and ate our breakfast in the sun. Yesterdays leftovers of croissants and cheese.
The next few kilometers seemed intermidable, it was 9:30 by the time we made Furela. The book said that this was 7K. Normally we make 6K an hour and this made no sense. Either the book had it in the wrong place or we were in for a long day.
It was a very friendly place nevertheless and we met the French couple again. I am not sure what he ment but the guy said to Viv “Santiago will be waiting”
We crossed a road and I could see a church just up the road, I guessed that this was Zoo (Honestly that is the name of a village).
We passed quickly through another village then saw the sign for Aguiada. I thought we still had to pass through Pintin first, so assumed that was the village we were walking through. Then on the way out I saw another sign for Aguiada pointing back. It was hard to believe, but after the first hard 7K we were now only 5K from Sarria.
Before we reached Sarria we passed an albergue and stopped for a coke. They had no coffee, just a vending machine but said we could have camomile tea free. We needed a cold drink, though the offer was well received.
When we entered Sarria it looked the sort of place you could just pass through, all concrete and cafes. So we stopped for a bocadillo and tried the panedaria. There was nothing we wanted here and the supermarket across the road was shut.
It seemed to have several centres, we came across a shop and went in, there we found some suntan cream and yogurt, and a big queue. Two guys in front kept taking water out of the fridge and then putting it back as it was getting warm. The till was at the fruit counter, so while the locals picked their fruit and had it weighed everyone else in the shop stood waiting. I had had enough, we stuck our yogurt back in the fridge and left.
Not far arround the corner was another shop, they had no sun cream but sent us to the farmacia. Meanwhile the two guys who had been in front of us in the shop came in and bought some cold water.
I wonder how much business they have lost over the years, because most people do not want to spend an afternoon in a queue?
We found the farmacia, but it’s Sunday isn’t it? We did find a shop where I finally got new ends for my sticks, only 1e, the Leki ones were 4e in Pamplona. I also got a new belt, as mine is on its last legs.
Up the hill again and we saw an albergue and hostel, double room? No. So we carried on up the hill. Another hostel double room? yes, bathroom? no but only one other person, well needs must. This though, was where my spanish failed me “quanto es?” “quince” now I failed to believe it was fifteen and thought it must be fifty “pero incluido desayuno”
that swung it, we stayed. When I came down to pay he charged me 30e, so it must have been 15e per person. I think we have a bargain.
Now our hostel last night had a beautiful bathroom, but the shower did not work and there was no screen or shower curtain. Todays bathroom you would not describe as salubrious, there is a washing machine full of laundry in the corner and a pile of washing on the bidet. The thing is though, it worked, good hot shower and all the water stayed within the confines of the bath. This is a rarity in Spain, they spend so much making the places look nice but forget to make them work.
We had our meal in a place behind the hostel “A Travesia dos sonos” the best peregrino menu we have had yet. Trouble is what I really wanted was a big plate of pasta, our pregrino menu was almost there but the italian restaurant we found up the hill later would have suited better.
So if you come to Sarria, keep walking, it goes from souless to interesting, but it takes a while. In fact the best is just before you leave.


1 Comment

Filed under Camino de Santiago

One response to “Day36 31st day walking

  1. Philip & Brenda

    Caught up with you again at Sarria. There is a river and, what looks like a large lake west oh Sarria. Once across you are nearly there. You have both done so well. Take care. Phil&Brenda

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