Day 35 30thday walking

The morning at O Cebreiro is a bit special. As you look out across the valley all that can be seen are the tops of the mountains breaking through the clouds. It looks more like a mediterranian sea-scape than a mountain scene.
We still have some climbing to do, but at least it is now cooler than yesterday afternoon. As we pass across the tops of the mountain the scenery is breathtaking. For me this has been by far the best vistas we have had so far.
The pass is marked by a statue of a wind swept pilgrim, but Viv had trouble taking his picture as the sun was behind him.
We seemed to reach Alto do Poio very quickly, that first 9K is always the easiest. At the albergue bar there we stopped for coffee and there was a noticable difference here with the staff. Water bottles were filled without complaint, the tables were all served, nothing was too much trouble. Even the Wifi worked without a key. It was a shame I did not have to post a blog from there, I would have more problems later.
From here we would be going downhill again, it looked very steep on the map. It was though, not as punishing as the descent from Manjarin a few days ago.
We met our French friends again, it is a shame we cannot communicate, we have so much in common on this journey.
At the unsceduled village of As Pasantes we passed a nice albergue and were tempted to join everyone outside, but we carried on through the village. Then we were accosted by a sweet old lady offering pancakes. The german girls who were there first were reluctant to take one, we thought it was reasons of hygene. Once I had my pancake firmly in my mouth she said donativo. She was chasing the germans for some money, I just thought “what the hell” and gave her a euro. She did not give up though, she wanted another for Viv’s. I am learning about these seemingly nice old dears, I pointed to the euro and said “es para ambos”. She did not give up until we were well down the road. Beware the sweet old ladies, they have their own method of money with menaces.
This 21K day now seemed quite short after our recent hikes, but we were still tired when we finally arrived in Triacastela. We could see the albergue across the field wth the huge queues already forming, so we jumped at the first hostal we saw. They were sorry, but the only room they had left was with a bathroom. At 40e it would do us fine.
We walked around the back of the bar up steps at the side into a doorway behind, but then we had a further three flights of stairs to get to our room.
The room was beautiful, but later when we walked down into the town, I think we jumped too soon. The town was full of hostels, rooms and hotels and now we had to walk back up that hill every time we went into town.
We found a very nice bar and had a salad for lunch. They had Wifi and I connected easily. I thought this was too good to be true, all I could get was network error on my machine.
Later we got Wifi at our hostel bar and I managed to post at last.
Just for a change we bought some food from the supermarket and ate under a tree. I think the ants had more of a feast off us though.
The danish girl appeared again in our bar, I think she is following us.


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Filed under Camino de Santiago, Tango

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