Day34 29th day walking

I knew this would be a hard day, good places to stop were few and far between. Still, we set off in good spirits and found breakfast at the bottom of Villafranca. On the way out the route splits and Viv was all for taking the mountain route, bu I knetw that later in the day we would regret losing an hour. An hour lost early morning can add up as the day gets hotter.
The way follows the main road for quite some way and Viv was soon getting bored with it. I had my engineer’s eye on and was fascinated by the Main A6 which was flying overhead like the valkeries.
We passed through Pereje, nothing was happening here this early so we carried on to Trabadelo where we passed through some shading woodlands before we came into the village.
We stopped for just a zumo as we had already had breakfast. Inside we saw Ineka again who told us that Wyn had taken the mountain route. This is the point where he would rejoin us but he would likely be a while. Ineka left before us, so we carried on alone.
At Portela we stopped again and came across Ineka again. Viv wanted to walk with her but I was, as usual, slow starting. So I told her to go ahead, I would be OK once I got moving.
The A6 crossed our path again. It stood on T pillars with bridge pieces between and floors across. I estimated it was about 30-40 metres above us. I passed a lady in the village and asked her how high it was. She had no idea but said in the next valley it would be higher. It never crossed us again, but as we rounded the next valley we could see it crossing to our right and what an impressive sight it was. Peru may have its railway in the sky by Spain has the A6.
We had intended to stop for lunch in Las Herrerias but as we entered it looked like another one horse town. It did have more horses though, for 25e you could ride one up to O Cebreiro. I’ll pass on that one.
Ineka was having trouble finding the albergue and we reached the end of the village without finding an albergue or a shop for our lunch.
There was a bar, so we went in. The surley barman gave us a coke, no ice. I found out later his ice bucket was empty. Ineka had a bocadillo, the size of the titanic. We needed cooling so I got two ice creams. He made a big point of making me put them on the bar so he could check. I think he was just making me walk further. As we got up to leave he went into the kitchen, then he went outside. Viv came back in “haven’t you paid yet” she said. Well you need someone to pay, don’t you.
Ineka decided to go back into the village as she was tired, a wise decision as things turned out.
We carried on to La Faba, a steep lung burning uphill climb over rough ground. The scenery is amazing and at any other time we would have spent time admiring it. The heat was getting oppressive and Viv was struggling until we found ourselves in woodland, where the shade of the trees gave us some welcome cool.
There was a girl with cold drinks donativo so we had a couple of cans and walked a bit further up the hill. When we found a spot we sat and drank our cans.
A young german guy stopped to talk to us, obviously also not impressed with Las Herrerias.
As we got up to leave we met the horses for O Cebreiro, coming down the hill. We thought we had trouble with the bikes, it was nothing compared to the horses. Viv was trying to photograph them, but I nearly knocked her over as a horse came straight at me. I thought I was done for then.
At La Faba there was only one albergue and it was not open until two. There was a huge queue outside, I thought we could be in O Cebriero by the time this lot had got in. So we carried on. There was a shop so we had some drinks and then Viv managed to get us some yogurt at last.
The book said that it was only 2K to Laguna de Castillo, I am not so sure. With Viv struggling in the heat it took us nearly an hour. Then at the albergue they said “es complete” so we decided to have a rest and two large beers before moving on. I was not too sure of the proprietor he seemed a bit off hand and the medeival music that was playing would have driven me nuts, so perhaps it was best we move on.
We had already done 25K and most of it up steep hills so the next 2.5 K was hard. It would have been hard anyway but the heat of the mid afternoon sun was draining us.
Nortmally Viv is the stronger walker but she was struggling now and I had to wait for her often. I poured some of my precious water supply down her neck in the hope it would liven her up, but it was already very warm.
The sight of proper walls was a welcome sight and soon enough we were in the village. There was a coach parked outside, I just hoped they had not taken all the beds.
My fears were justified when we tried the first hostel “esta complet” they said. It was getting on for four and most pilgrims had now stopped walking. So we tried the next place “Pulsar el timbre” it said. “Hay un habitacion doble?” I tried. “Tienes reserva” came the reply, my heart sank. But a girl arrived and said “es possible 40e” well that willl do. It is a small room but has a bathroom and a double bed, what more could we want?
There is a lavanderia here so Viv is happy, and we can sit and eat our menu pelegrino with a view of the top of the world,It has to be the best view of the Camino. So all worked out well in the end.
While we sat there the danish girl from Orison arrived as did the French couple who walk seperately.



Filed under Camino de Santiago, Tango

2 responses to “Day34 29th day walking

  1. jantango

    I checked the map that indicates only 180Km from Villafranca. You’re gonna make it to the end.

    I also had to check a dictionary for “zumo” and “bocadillo” because the Spanish use different words than Argentines. Now I know their words for juice and sandwich.

    I imagine the smile on your face when you find a room with a double bed and private bath for a good price. Oh, the simple luxuries of life are so grand.

  2. Irene

    Hi Viv and Rob,
    Thank you so much for your card with all the beautiful photos on it. It is great to see how far along the route you are. You have achieved so much since you started and have our greatest admiration. Once again,
    Love, Irene and Philip

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