Day 30 25th day walking

I am starting to like these early mornings, these are not the grey cold mornings where my alarm clock woke me for work, no, they are fresh clear mornings that promise a good day.
The walk out of Astorga was not like the walk out of other cities, just a descent between historic buildings and we were soon out into countryside.
The sun was washing over the snow capped Picos in the distance creating a beautiful morning scene. Well worth the early rise.
We had been accosted by a guy giving flyers for organic breakfast with muesli. After this long, how could we resist? We passed three places that were open before we left the city but we were not swayed, then just a bit down the road was another, we started to have doubts.
We missed the sign for the Beautiful Maragato Village of Castrillo de los Polvazares so intent were we on the breakfast.
When we got to Murias de Rechivaldo there were two bars, but we knew the one we wanted. Viv walked straight in while I parked my bag outside. I ordered coffee but midway through my order the bar woman demanded Viv put her bag outside, then went on to serve someone else.
They had the best egg and bacon baps I have seen here. stacked on the bar. On any other day we would have loved them, but we wanted muesli.
In the end though, all we got was fruit yogurt, we did not even get a zumo and it cost me 8e. Another lesson learned, although I am not sure what it was.
We walked on through Santa Catalina de Somoza, stopping for a zumo at a very nice albergue that had only four beds to a room. A warm friendly bar, and they even had a scotty dog that had Viv enthralled.
Every 5Ks more or less we have a stop today, it should make the 27K we plan go more easily. Our next stop was El Ganso, the bar looked like an old shed and the guy an aging rocker. While we sat drinking, Wyn walked passed, we exchanged insults and he carried on.
As we walked out of the village Wyn was sat on a wall resting, I said “I thought you would get further before we passed you” Wyn said “wait, I will come with you”
For the next few kilometers he accompanied us and helped the miles pass. His walk was just a little slow so eventually we left him and wished him well. I have little doubt we will meet again.
At Rabanal del Camino it was time for a serious pit stop. They had gazpacho or hot soup. Viv was not for the Gazpacho so I asked what was in the soup, “spaghetti, chicken and vegetables”, the guy said, so we gave it a try. It took a long time to come and when it did it was very hot, but not very tasty. Fortunately Viv had her Marmite. We added some and that spiced it up a bit. We saw Wyn pass as we ate and he waved. He would be stopping here for the night, so we will not see him again today.
Only 7K to our final stop, I expected it to be about an hour, although I had not properly checked the map; there was also a 400 metre climb. It was rough and hard going. At one point I heard a curse behind me, a cyclist was taking the rough path and would have to stop as there was no way past us. Fortunately I heard him and we got out of his way, He never stopped. He did wish us “buen camino” as he passed. That was one hell of a climb on foot, to do it on a bike demands serious respect. We half expected to see an exhausted cyclist lying in a heap at the top, but the guy just kept going.
Relieved after the climb, we eventually got to Foncebadon. The joy did not last long though; this place looks like it has been deserted 20 years ago and left to tumble down.
No sign of an hotel or hostel so I dived in the first albergue and booked us in. It had no organisation, you had to find your own bed. After a search we got two top bunks and hit the shower.
There was only one shower and that was occupied. So we took residence outside and put anyone else off. Viv stood guard while I showered and I likewise did the same for her.
The albergue was offering paella for the guests but again Viv vetoed it. So we went off in search of food.
There is an Inn here, opens 17 June. Casa de comidas, looks like it will never open again. So we tried the other albergue, well it had a bar at least. Viv spotted the Mahou negra, “that’ll ding dang do for me”.
We met the group of girls we keep meeting, the ones with the girl with the sprained ankle. We now know that their names are Barb, Bev, and Fern. They had booked this albergue, and again I was in trouble because I had booked the wrong place.
We had the pregrino menu here and spent the rest of the evening getting some alcohol down us in the hope that we could sleep.
Tomorrow was to be another long day.


1 Comment

Filed under Camino de Santiago

One response to “Day 30 25th day walking

  1. Wyn Winfried Behlau

    Hi Viv and Bob, I am WYN. Fantastic – I found you while searching my own book.
    Drop me a line to give you a link of wonderful fotos.
    By the way – no problems with my passport – but a broken bone near Finisterra

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