Day 24 19th day walking

We awoke at six, as has become our habit. Downstairs we got a breakfast of toast, jam coffee and juice.
The guy from the bar came out and pointed us the right way down the Camino. The trouble was, we took him a bit too literally and ended up in the park. No problem, just a few more steps to get to the bridge out of town. A few more steps and a few more sins paid for, as Jack would have said.
The next few Ks were just like an English country lane. It was all lined with trees and the early morning birds were singing their hearts out. Everything was good with the world.
Soon though, it openend out into flat countryside. It had its own beauty but after a while it got boring. We expected a long day and I wanted to rest every hour, Viv wanted to stubbornly go on. I found what I thought was a good stop and we sat for ten minutes and had some water and a comfort break.
Wouldn’t you know it though, five minutes down the road was an organised rest space with benches and shelter, another opportunity for Viv to say “I told you so”
We trudged on, and out of nowhere appeared The Seasonal Cafe that is supposed to be at the halfway point. Well, we had to stop. Cafe con leche and we stocked up on some fruit and hard boiled eggs. I had an egg while I was there, sometimes only an egg wiill do.
After that there was just a continuation of flat and boring. When it is like this it never seems to end. What it did give me though, was time to just get my stride right. To fight the way my knee keeps trying to make me land awkward, and just get a rhythm.
Finally we got to Calzadilla and we stopped at the albergue. Viv was soon settled on the bench outside. I asked “hay sevicios?” the guy looked up “at the bar 50 metres down the road”.
So I told Viv she would have to move, I was not walking down there, using the toilet, then buying coffees and walking back. We sat out by the road and ate our media lunas and drank our coffee and ate the two eggs we had carried. I made a promise at this point, not to carry any more food. We always end up carrying food to the next bar and then eating it outside. It would be so much easier just to buy it as we go.
We followed the trail on to Ledigios, and now I know what the term “s**t hole” really means. The buildings were all covered in the stuff. Obviously they cannot afford concrete here. We stopped at a bar (sorry the only bar). There was a man and a woman there, stood at the opposite end ignoring me. They carried on ignoring me until there was a crowd behind me. Then the woman left. The man carried on ignoring me for an age, until finallly I got my two beers.
The one good thing about this place was the footpath in and out. We walked through verdant archways of bushes covered in bright yellow Jasmin scented flowers. The nearest we have to these are Gorse but, of course, they are a lot more harsh and lacking the scent.
Perhaps Terradillos would be better. Outside of town there was a very nice albergue. Never stop at the first one. The next said it had 2,4,&6 bed rooms. There was chaos at the reception. As the girl passed I asked ” hay dobles” “no” was all I got.
We walked back towards the first place we had seen and met a group of ladies who told us it was full, but that they had made a reservation at Moratinos another 3.5 Ks further on.
They followed the arrows through the village but I already knew the arrows would only take them past the albergue. so I followed my own route.
When we checked on the map, we had actually taken the old Camino. Viv was convinced it was another of my famous short cuts and we would be wandering all night, but I stuck with the plan. We found a rest place but because it was now no longer used, the benches had fallen into disrepair and what we had was a seesaw. Viv was still not happy and blaming me for our predicament. I was trying my hardest to look on the bright side.
Soon enough though, we saw the turn for Moratinos and we soon found the albergue. It was full, so we ordered two beers. Well what else can you do?
Someone told me about the Hostal, so I left Viv with the beers and set off to find it. It was 55e but needs must, so I booked it.
Walking back a German guy accosted me. “Are you Bob? I am Wyn” he said. He said he had spoken to Viv and agreed to share the room. Well, split three ways, I thought it would be cheaper, never the less I was not sure.
Back at the albergue Viv had the beers and was trying to rush me back. I just wanted to rest my feet and relax. Viv said she should go back to the Hostel as they would not know Wyn, “they won’t know you either” I said. So I allowed myself to be rushed back to the Hostel.
At the hostel Wyn was already in the shower, so he obviously had had no problem with the spanish staff.
It appears that in his guide book the price was 45e for a triple now they wanted 60e. I had already agreed to pay 55e. So now Wyn thought he was being ripped off and I was left in the middle. I was happy to pay the 55e but not to share the room.
To make matters worse, when I bought drinks they would not charge me and insisted on putting it on the room. I do not look forward to the morning.
We explored the village a little, there was a restaurant, but it was shut mondays for a rest. Good here init? Carrion shut Sundays for sabbath, Moratinos shut Monday for a rest. Will it be half day closing in Sahagun on Tuesday? I wonder.
We ordered the peligrino menu at the albergue as we now felt under pressure not to run up a bill at the hostel. The trouble is we were now in limbo between the hostel and the alburgue. Last thing I need after our day is to keep walking between the two places.
Just a footnote, the book Viv bought in Burgos is called “A Tap On The Window” subtitled “Doing the right thing could be your biggest mistake” Perhaps she should have taken more notice.
The menu peregrino was actually quite good and we had extra pasta, a good filling is all it takes to make me happy. Unusually, they had a chocolate cake choice for dessert, although that meant I missed out on the Lemonchello. Still, you can’t have everything.
After the meal Wyn bought us both a pasarama, it tasted a bit like Venos cough medicine. I could make a habit of this.


1 Comment

Filed under Camino de Santiago

One response to “Day 24 19th day walking

  1. Irene

    I love your cheerfulness Rob when you are, from time to time, facing adversity along your route. You and Viv are tackling this adventure in exactly the right spirit and don’t let anything faze you at all. Felicitaciones – buena carretera.
    Much Love to you both.

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