Day 16 12th day walking

It was an interesting night, we met up with Mary again. I think it may be the end of her Camino as she has torn a tendon, she expects to go on in a few days but intended to finish in Burgos anyway. Personally, I think she will finish here.
We also met Tammy again, she was travelling with a group that gradually diminished at Pamplona and her son finally left her at the last stop. She will now walk alone. She was staying at the monestry (The first albergue we passed) but had come to us to use the internet. We hope to meet up with her later today if all goes well.
Another mad night, with the people who had lain in bed all day, disturbing us at four in the morning. Leaving the door open to allow all the noise in and shining their torches everywhere.
We awoke in a field hospital, there were people with bandages on, plasters and even one guy had his leg slung up in bed. Too many people had seen the film and thought “I can do that”
Still, we were out at six thirty ish and straight on the road. The map told us we only had 7 Ks before we could find some breakfast in Granon. The first bar we found had a range of pastries and bocadillos and we had decided to have a ham and cheese, then after Viv had sat down they brought BLT and egg, so I made an executive decision. That was the best breakfast we have had since arriving.
The road was not good today, the mist dampenend the views, but each town we passed through had its own charm.
First there was Granon, where we just enjoyed the breakfast. Next we passed through Redecilla del Campo where there was a real mix of new buildings and derelict older places, but still they had the huge church.
Castildelgado had nothing and we passed through it very quickly. There was a sign to a bar but we were not about to leave the Camino. Viloria de Roja we also passed through then came back. As there was nowhere to stop we sat on a bench in the middle and just had some nuts and water.
When we got to Villamajor del Rio there was a Hotel across the road and away from the Camino, but we went anyway.
The guy in the bar did not like the look of two pilgrims walking in but served us anyway. We had coffee and the best tortilla yet. I think we started a trend because others started to apear after we sat down. An Austrailian lady arrived and started talking to us, we think we had met before but by now we are getting confused and can no longer remember who we have met where.
Only 5Ks now to Belorado and we just romped it. We had seen adverts for Cuatro Cantares and we decided that we would stay there. We quite like the idea of a shared pilgrim supper that was included.
It was not the place we had expected though, there was a crowd when we entered so we went out for a beer.
Being lost on the Camino you forget about other things, and when we sat in the bar, the Monoco Gran Prix was on. We sat there drinking beer and just relaxing.
After the Gran Prix we returned for a less than hot shower.
Belorado is quite a pretty place, there is a monestry and church built against the hillside, and this was our first sighting of trogladite monks. The whole of the hillside is peppered with windows, so I presume, the caves behind them are occupied.
They also have one of the biggest Plaza Mayor we have seen. Not that there is a lot there, but it does have a beautiful bandstand. I wanted to go up and tango but, as usual, it was locked. The plaza is surrounded by narrrow alleys and brightly painted little houses.
Like everywhere we have been though there are as many empty lots and derelict places as there are good properties.
The food was good, probably the best pilgrim menu we had had. We sat with an American lady and her daughter. The daughter was 18, not old enough for alcohol in the US, so we shared a bottle of wine between the two of us. Viv and the daughter had the black bean soup for starter. It had a huge bit of black pudding in it, I was quite jealous with my macaroni, although that was good as well.
We all had the lomo for main, the sauce was delicious.
Viv had some cider to help her sleep and I finished with a lemon liqueur. We really enjoyed the meal.
The nights sleep was a different matter.


1 Comment

Filed under Camino de Santiago

One response to “Day 16 12th day walking

  1. Irene

    Hi Viv and Rob,
    It is really fascinating to read more about your interesting journey. You are so descriptive about the people and places you encounter along the way. When you get back and I see all your photos, I shall immediately recognize everything and everybody.
    Enjoy, the next part of your adventure – well done on what you have achieved already.
    Much Love,

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