Day 14 10th day walking

Logrono is a totally different animal to Pamplona. Maybe because it is a frontier town on a river like my home town, or maybe it has something else, but I am always sad to leave.
It was also where we met with Roger again and possibly the last time we will see him in Spain.
Sad to leave the comfy and friendly albergue and our perfect little room as well.
But leave we must, and at seven in the morning we were out. Well, we would be if I could figure out how to open the door. It had the wierdest lock. I pushed and pulled, nothing seemed to work. Then I heard it lock itself, figured it must have been open, so I pressed the red button again and shouldered it, and there we were in the street.
We had trouble finding food when we arrived here but now the bar in front of the albergue was open for breakfast. There were already four or five pilgrims waiting but it took no time and by seven thirty we were on the road.
We knew we could rejoin the Way at the top of the hill so we joined it where Roger had parked his car.
Before long it was raining. I never thought it would come to much, but Viv had her way and we kitted up. We walked for about an hour and it was getting too hot in the wet weather gear, so we took it off.
Viv asked for a status report; knee holding up, blisters now not bothering me, annkle still to free up. Looking good.
Before long we were in Pantano de la Grajera, a local beauty spot. There were ducks and grebes right by us and a beautiful lake which we had to go around. By the time Viv had finished taking photos it had started raining again. We just put the tops on and left the leggings off. Then it started raining properly and we had to suit up completely.
It eased up by the time we got to Navarette but we were not ready to strip off again.
We had seen bar La Parada advertised and thought we would stop for a coffee. When I approached the bar an American woman tried to send me the other way, as the bar was off the camino. Then the girl who ran it would not let me in but was drying the chairs outside.
“Dos cafe con leche?” I asked, she pointed at the tables outside. So I sat down. There was no sign of our coffee so I went inside and tried again. She again pointed outside, so I sat and waited.
A Japanese couple joined us then dissapeared. After half an hour Viv had had enough and several customers had left. Then someone came out with coffee, Viv went in. Meanwhile the chair I had been saving for the Japanese had gone (Well I thought that they had left).
I was by now starting to think that Viv had been sold to white slavers, when the Japanese reappeared with some bread and coffee.
When Viv finally arrived she said that she had to wait while everybody had sandwiches made, and our original coffees went cold on the counter.
We drank our slop (you just could not call it coffee) and dissapeared before we were asked to buy the cold coffee.
Now we just had more miles of vineyards, framed with beautiful mountains maybe, but the foreground was getting boring.
The wind was also getting to me. We had brought some lunch with us that we had bought in Logrono but it was looking doubtful we would find anywhere to eat it. There were shelters in the wildlife park but that was too early. Now there was nowhere. I had inspiration; we passed a graveyard. It was a walled garden and nice and warm. When we sat down though, we could smell death. Warm and cosy it may have been but Viv was not for staying.
We trudged on, blown about by arctic winds. We started to go downhill towards the main N120. We were now in a cutting and I made an executive decision we would sit on the grass here and lunch. Of all the beautiful spots we had passed, we ended up eating our lunch accomapanied by heavy traffic and lorries, bu at least it was out of the wind.
The Way followed the highway before turning away sharply towards Ventosa.
There followed a debate, some people had gone straight on and Viv thought that we were going the wrong way. I kept showing her the map but she was not convinced. The truth was though, that had we not wanted to go to Ventosa it would have been better to go straight on.
At Ventosa the arrows took us all around the village and back the way we had come. So we stopped for a beer.
This was our break point, it was stop here or do 30Ks today. Neither of us liked the look of the place so we went forth. At first it was fairly interesting, we climbed over a hill lined with stones that had been placed there by pilgrims. The rutted path would have been difficult for the cyclists and walkers alike. Then we passed over the top to yet another bodega. The vista though was awsome we could see a vast range of mountains and the snow covered peak of Punta something or other at 27800 metres.
Then we were back to miles of vineyards again. We stopped to eat our almond slices just before Poyo de Roldan where there was a stone building, it looked iron age but was much more recent. I think it was built as a shelter for pilgrims.
After this it was just industrial landscape until we arrived at Najera. The town itself is quite pretty with a clear river running through. The problem was, though, we were now late at 4:30, beds will be taken. Sure enough at the first alberge we were told “es complet” so we had to go on to the second choice.
Leave your sticks and boots at the door and it is just one big dorm. The bunks are side by side and they did put Viv and I on bottom bunks adjoining.
Viv was not happy with the shower though, stone cold and nowhere to leave your clothes.
We went out for some food, platos combinados and a salad, y muchos cervesa, to help us sleep.
Well we have past quarter point of the Camino. Doing well.



Filed under Camino de Santiago

2 responses to “Day 14 10th day walking

  1. tangobob

    Sorry but you will have to wait for photos. My ability to connect over here is sparse and I am haveing trouble using this android machine. Hopefully when we return I can post many of the pictures.
    The tag, I’m afraid is a result of android knowing better than me what I want.

  2. jantango

    How about posting the photo of that awesome vista? We’d like to see some of the people you mention, as well, and especially Viv with her rucksack.

    The tag for this post is too long.

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