Day 10 7th Day walking

I knew having the bunks nearest the toilets was a bad idea. When people started getting restless they headed for the toilets and the lights were on from about 5.
This meant we got a good start though and we were in the bar opposite only just after 6. So instead of the anticipated rush we had the place more or less to ourselves. Desayuna completa only 4e not bad cafe con leche, orange juice and a pastry for what you would pay for a coffee in Chester.
Our only problem was that yesterdays pounding was now telling on me, and my left ankle was almost incapable of movement. The pain was excruciating, my only hope was that it would ease as it warmed up. I lathered it in ibuprofen creem and manipulated it and hobbled off.
All along the camino we have found people who are making a good living out of the pilgrims, not by ripping them off, just giving good service.
We headed out of town and then I remembered to turn my phone on, the stupid apps that are provided by Galaxy and will not be deleted, keep turning themselves on and I did not want “voice talk” waking up pilgrims.
Again we were taken up a hill only to come down again on the road we had been on before. Still being tested I see.
Soon we were out into the country again and we strolled d on through fine woodlands.
A few Ks on we found the wine fountain. I could get no more that a drip out of it. Then Viv saw the sign that said it operated 8 till 8. That’s us, always in the wrong pklace at the wrong time.
The scenery was improving by step. Never the less as we came around a bend and over the hill, it became obvious why Christians have done this route for milenia, I could see the meaning of “Gods Beautiful Earth”.
We were now passing through wine country and vines were everywhere, but the vistas far outclassed the forground.
At our first coffee stop we met Mary, a seventy year old Irish woman. She could not lift her rucksack back on her back. I said ” You need a lighter pack” but we did not catch her up again until we reached the auberge.
We were now climbing steadily, the big hills we had seen in the distance, were now moving away to our right so at least,we would not have to climb them. Therev was a further fortified hill which we also passed, but still we were climbing.
After rounding yet another bend we caught sight of VillaMayor.
Another beautiful village on a hill. The Irish boys were all waiting at the bus stop, though I suspect that they would not be allowed a bus. (Irish boys? Do try and keep up, the ones I thought were young Americans).
After many more Ks we saw a sign “Bocadillos 1000m” Then another at 500m and so on at every 100m. What we saw was yet another enterprising soul witha van and some picnic tables.
It was very welcome just the same. We had some more tortilla and while Viv stuck with coffee I went Roman and had wine and water. It was very refreshing on a dusty road.
Becasue we had set out so early we arrived in Los Arcos not long after midday so it looked like there would be nothing open yet.
As luck would have it about the fourth Auberge we passed was already open so we just dived in. I was too whacked to look at the name, it should have given me a clue, but when the girl spoke to me I did not understand a word.
By the time we had paid and got to our bed I had worked it out, she spoke German. The Auberge? It is called “Auberge Austria”
After a shower and dressing my wounds we hobbled off to explore. We found a farmacia just around the corner, and I had another Crabtree moment. We managed to be easily understood that we wanted sunblock for our lips, but I though 40e too much so went for 25e. Then she asked for 8e, turned out that the 40 and 25 were sun protection factors.
Then we set out to find a bar, this was not looking like it would succede. So I asked a local. She sent me back the way we had come “Abajo, abajo” she said
We very soon were sat down with some more bcadillos and a very large beer. We were joined by Mary who told us of her childrens displeasure at her running off alone. She also convinced us to visit the church.
The church had the most amazing organ. The pipes came out of the walls horizontally, I would have loved to hear it played.
The walls of the interior were covered in golden sculpture, at truly amazing sight.
While Viv went for a massage I sat on the terrace talking to some other pilgrims , eventually I was left alone with Jerry, some sort of old age traveller who manages to live the life he wants on a state pension. I said he would never manage that with a Viv in tow.
We set off for the square again and our evening meal. No menu peregrino tonight, we would eat well.
The place we had spotted had pizza and paella, so we asked for one of each “para partir” oh! and some chips not forgetting the cidra.
Well it was chaos everyone who had come in after us got their drinks before our bottle of cider arrived. Then our pizza went to the table behind us, she managed to start it while we just had our chips. Then the paella arrived but we had no plates, eventually the pizza arrived half an hour after our chips. It is a good job we were sharing or one of us would have been eating cold food. I wanted a glass of wine to help my pizza down but it was well eaten before my wine arrived, probably just as well as he poured more on my plate than in my glass.
Then the waiter changed, I asked for carta de postre and he brought the pilgrim menu. As for the bill, I think we should have done a runner, we chased them around the restaurant and paid at the bar. Cheep it wasn’t, but I suppose it was cheerful, it was certainly entertaining.

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