Day Five Third Day Walking

The forecast today is good, lets hope the weather holds for us. We are woken at six by all the lights being turned on. We move all our gear downstairs and I position my bag by a socket so that I can charge my phone. The computor was dead last night so that used up my only adaptor.
The kitchen area is like something out of Space 1999, all machines and very hi tech. A palmiera covered in chocolate and cafe con leche was our breakfast. Then it was off outside.
The forecast may have been good but this early it was still cold. Viv set about takeing some photos, then we booted up and were off, but not before I had a word with one of the volunteers here. She was from Haarlem and questioned me on my Dutch. I am afraid all I could remember was how to ask for 20 Peter Styversant.
The Way here was only muddy for a short while then it went on to patterned concrete, miles of it. The pilgrim pound was doing wonders for the local infrastructure.
The walk here is just like walking through our local forest (Delamere). As we zigzag across the main road we passed through a town called Biskarreta where we thought it would be good to stop for coffee. Now we knew we were in real Spain, there was work going on everywhere. We sat in a cafe with builders walking through, a digger right next to us and a guy spray painting circles around us. A German lady came in behind me as I bought the coffees and said “I want one of those” I tried to tell her how to order a large coffee in a glass but she was not listening.
We did not stay long, the dust and noise were not conducive to relaxing so we moved on. We had a lot more forest walking today and I think Viv quite enjoyed it. I was having trouble with my knee though. I had put on a bandage right from the start and at first it was giving me trouble even on the flat, but with warming up it was getting better. Viv was letting me use her trecking pole on the downhills and that certainly helped. By the time we made the descent into Zubiri though I was having trouble continuing.
We had decided that we would not stop here and wanted to go on to Larrasoana, so we just stopped for some lunch. Another chance to practice my Spanish, “Que tiene? ” I asked, well the list was quite extensive, but I remembered most of what she said and relayed it to Viv. I knew what she would want though. So I ordered two coffees and two bocadillos con lomo caliente. Very nice they were too, and we got a stamp on our pilgrim pssports to boot.
We left refreshed, but the next 5 kilometers seemed like the end of the earth. We passed through a horrible industrial landscape. It looked like a giant cement works, it made us realise what damage man can do. We were not happy until we had got to the end of the industrial zone. Once in Larrasoana we soon found the albergue, but after paying and finding our beds we wished we hadn’t. The rooms were tiny with 5 beds to a room. They looked like they had been decorated some time around Dickens’ lifetime and there was only one bathroom for 16 people. As we set up our stuff there was already a queue of 5 waiting to use it.
There was no way I was waiting there so we set off for a beer. Later we returned and everyone had finished, but the whole place was an inch deep in water.
Metropolis this place is not, only one bar and it was advertising Pilgrim menu. Viv had had eough of pilgrim menue so we had a hamburger. It was ok though and I had a good hour or so on tinternet.
While enjoying yet more San Miguel we were asked to move. Small town,small bar, there was not enough room for us to sit and drink and for them to serve the pilgrim menus. Looks like another early night. So I sit in bed writing this and watching the chaos as all the diners returned.
I feel sorry for the German guy in the single bed, trying his hardest to sleep.
Our japanese bunk mates arrived. Have I mentioned that in all the alburges they have bunk beds? Well this being one of the least salubrious there were no ladders. The japanese guy went out again, there followed a lot of clatter, then he returned with a step ladder. The German guy meanwhile got up and left the room until it quietened down.
The japanese guy got in his bunk and was snoring before I had finished laughing.
Later that night I awoke thinking that I was in the blitz. The german guy, who we now knew as Holga was bombing us with explosive snores, and the two japanese were scanning the skies with their head torches. Never saw the bombers though.


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