Daily Archives: April 6, 2012

Carlos Gardel

On our last visit we visited Chacarita cemetery. Unknown to us Carlos Gardel is buried there and there is a monument to him. So we thought today we would go and visit him.

For reasons best know to herself Viv did not want to take the subte, but instead wanted to walk. That is twenty five blocks to my reckoning. We headed off along Humahuaca,  “where are we going” Viv said “I thought it was along Corrientes”. I had a cunning plan; you see at this point Corrientes zigzags somewhat where as Humahaca is straight. “We go up Estado de Israel “I told her. Estado de Israel curves slightly and cuts just a bit more off the corner. Such are the small victories that make up a marriage.

Unlike last time we did this, we did not need a new handbag or a grater, so we reached Parque de los Andes quicker than I expected.

Viv asked if we were there, I checked my map and unbelievably we more or less were there.

As we wandered through there was no sign of the great man, although we did see some fantastic monuments. The most fantastic was Jorge Newbury, Argentine Aviator. (google him it is very interesting). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jorge_Newbery

We failed miserably, unlike Recoleta there was no map or plan showing who was where. So I had to grab my best Spanish and ask. The guy seemed none too keen to answer, at first I thought it was my accent again, but then he pulled himself up and said something about no photos and respect. I just smiled and nodded respectfully and he told me to turn by Jorge Newbury, fortunately I now knew where he was.

Well we had a great reward for a long walk; unfortunately I cannot show you the photos as I do not have my connecting cable with me. You will just have to wait until my return. It seems a bit tacky to me though; people put up plaques on his monument, saying “thank you Carlos” or “We miss you” but most of them looked to me like cheap advertising for tango clubs and schools.  I wonder how many of these would have been allowed at home.

We wandered back and Viv asked if we would pass Por Vos Tango shoes. We could it was only a small detour, but extra on our journey. (I think she was on to me).

When we passed the shop, it was closed, gone. Shame it was one of her favorites as it was so close to us. I think it was just in a bad spot, convenient for us, but way off the tourist route.

Well, it’s Thursday, so that means Fulgor tonight. So after some pasta we got ready and trotted off again to Villa Crespo and our favorite milonga. When we arrived the usual old Rottweiler was on the door, but he never protested just took our entradas and let us pass. (I recon he is getting soft in his old age). Before we got through the door though, Roberto was there. We simply could not get through for all the backslapping, hugging and kissing. As he walked us down to a table people started to rise, suddenly he was the pied piper. A queue formed, everyone wanted to greet Los Galeses. Norma came over asking Viv if she could dance with me. Marianna the waitress kissed us both, it just carried on.

When we thought it had all settled down more people arrived, and of course, they all had to be greeted. Roberto announced a welcome for us in between tandas and in between all this we danced.

Now as tango venues go Fulgor is slightly different, apart from the fact that Roberto announces each tanda, they have some different music as well. So we danced tango, we danced milonga and Vals but also we danced Paso doble, mambo, and evenrock and roll. (In Buenos Aires they only seem to know “Rock around the clock” for rock and roll).

 Just another great night, to round it off Susanna came over and insisted we come to Sin Rumbo tomorrow and I won a wikky (whiskey) in the sorteo (raffle).  As everything started to close down Viv went to change her shoes and a great tanda of milongas came on, so ever the opportunist I grabbed Susanna.

What a great day, I met many old friends,Carlos Gardel , danced with some locals and got a free whikky to send me off to sleep. Somehow I don’t remember getting in bed  but I am sure I slept with a smile on my face.

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