Todo un poco caro

We wanted to rest today as tonight will be a late one. The weather is gorgeous, the sun is shining and it is just too nice to stay in. So after a late breakfast and some domestic chores, we set off for Villa Crespo.

On our regular walks to Fulgor we pass many new buildings, shop fronts that look very modern and hip. They are, of course, closed when we pass, so Viv wanted to see what they were like when they were open.

Mostly they are outlet shops selling everything from jeans to handbags. We raised the pulse of many dependientes, but it was all a bit caro for these extranjeros. Prices here have risen exponentially since we have been coming, and they seem to have doubled in the last year. Far from being the rich tourists we are watching our purse strings very carefully.

Still it was a wonderful day to just wander and when we had our fill of the outlet village we walked down to Palermo, hoping to get a coffee somewhere in the sun. The Argentines don’t seem to like sun so sunny spots are somewhat of a premium, so when we found one we were sticking to it.

“Dos cafe con leche, por favor” “la machina no funciona, hay una confiteria alli” and with that she started to walk off “Ok dos chop” “no puedo la….” ok I got the message, but we could have a can of beer. She started to rush off again, “senora!” “si” “y cuatro empanadas picante, por favor” now she was not moving until she was certain we had finished.

It was all very pleasant and the empanadas were tasty, but as we saw several customers going down the road to the confiteria I couldn’t help wondering “is it beyond the ken of everyone here to make coffee without an industrial machine”. If it were my restaurant I would have brewed some up in a pan, or at worst gone to the supermarket for some nescafe, especially when it is not possible to sit down without spending a tenner.

It seems a nice day is also the time for house sales, we passed a few and entered two of them. Again though everything was far too expensive. Even though prices here have risen there is not reason for second-hand stuff to be so expensive, often it is cheaper to source new items than buy second-hand things that often need repair. “Bike for sale, no peddles, one brake (no funciona) no seat and a bit scratched only $650”

We did treat ourselves to some very nice browny from our favourite confiteria for after tea though. Well we are on holiday.

So as I said tonight is going to be a late one we are off on the 92 to Matederos and Glorias Argentinas. Now I don’t know if it’s because fewer people are using the taxis now or we are just unlucky, but the numbers on this bus have grown. In fact it was Flores before we could get a seat and we were on Directorio before we could sit together. Normally this bus at this time of night would be almost empty.

The walk up to Glorias was not uneventful either, some drunk guy sent us down the wrong road. I had been counting the blocks but it’s easy to get distracted. Still it just meant we arrived from the other side so it was no big deal. I never asked for his help but he saw me looking for the street sign and obviously that was enough.

Janis was waiting when we arrived, Carlos Anzuate was there with many friends and all of Chiche’s family was there as well. (that is Chiche Carlos’s friend and dance partner, not to be confused with Chiche the milonguero). So we were relegated to the next table.

From here though we had an excellent view of the floor and an amazing folklore show that was put on. I have it on video, and will post it after I return home.

All good nights must come to an end and we had to speed off into the night. After being delayed first by Carlos who didn’t want us to go then the waitress who didn’t want us to pay then the cashier who didn’t want to do our bill.

So as we left we had less than ten minutes for Janis to catch her bus. We almost made it, I ran in the road waving my arms like a dervish, but he was not for stopping. Janis told us she would be ok so we walked to our stop.

We know that there is one here but we can never find it so we walked two blocks to where we know there is one. It was twenty minutes later our bus arrived. So at least now we know the time. We got on and round the corner was Janis still waiting but waving at us joyfully.

The bus stopped right by her and we waved back. I felt guilty leaving her there, but at least I know next time we can stand with her. Our bus shares the same stop.

Being this far out we were one of the first on so we had a seat, but again the bus was packed by the time it got to flores. Different crowd this time, all youngsters, drunk and swigging out of bottles. You know, we felt perfectly safe here, if this had been the last bus in Chester or Wrexham (four hours earlier) we would have been extremely nervous and I would be keeping my hands at a height where I could use them quickly.

A crowd of twenty or more drunken youths and not a sign of trouble, oh! to have such a thing at home.



Filed under Argentina, Tango

2 responses to “Todo un poco caro

  1. tangobob

    I’m so glad you did not have to wait too long, and we now know we can wait at the same stop next time.

  2. jantango

    It’s no small accomplishment for you and Viv to have attended Carlos Anzuate’s birthday celebration for three consecutive years. He had more friends attending this year. Just as well they didn’t start serving the cake until we rushed out the door to catch the bus. I would have stayed for seconds. At least we know that the night buses are scheduled every half hour. The 126 showed up a few minutes after you waved goodbye to me from the 92 bus. A large group of Argentines kept me company at the bus stop. I probably arrived home sooner than you did. Needless to say, I slept past noon and am still recovering.

    The folk ballet company was spectacular. You and Viv seemed enthralled with their performance.

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