It was time to buy a few things to bring home, so our first port of call was to be Esquina Carlos Gardel, the home of all things tacky and souveniers by the dozen.
We walked past the Abasto centre and down Anchorena. The trouble with this route is that we pass Susana Artenesal and they sell shoes. Viv has no recollection of being here before, but I assured her we have bought shoes here. The idea was just to collect advertising material and see what they had, but temptation and cheap shoes was just too much. That’s your Christmas present sorted, or wasn’t the Christmas present supposed to be the shoes from Por Vos? or was it Comme il Faut?
We managed to get one or two things from Carlos Gardel and then we set off down Sarmiento towards Callao. The variety of shops along here is amazing, we even stopped at Neo Tango but this time Viv contained herself.
The shops were huge mainly wholesale, often with a minimum purchase written on the window, that would put off impulse buyers like ourselves.
Viv was getting tired and thirsty, but it seemed unlikely that amongst all of these old tired buildings we could find anywhere that she would want to stop at. Then at 2222 we found a place called Bocado, a little surprise in the midst of chaos. We only wanted coffee but the morning promotion of three medialunas jugo de naranja y cafe con leche was just what we needed.
As we sat munching our pastries we jealously watched all the diners being served wonderful meals. The food looked and smelled delicious and the presentation was superb. There is now a note in our book to visit here again and maybe partake of a meal.
I have to thank Cherie and Janis who directed me to where I could buy some sheet music. Something I have commented on before is the strange habit of shops to group together in Buenos Aires and without direction I would never have found what I wanted.
We took the subte back from Uruguay, when we got underground there already was a huge crowd there, then it took an age for the train to arrive. As it pulled into the station it appeared to be struggling, the more so when it left. There was literally no room to breath, it took an almighty push to get us on and yet many were left on the platform. As I stood in the crush I tried my best to guard my wallet protect my precious music and stay upright. Things got no better at the next stop, more seemed to get onto the train than left, there was simply no relief until thankfully we burst out at Medrano.
I now think Janis had an ulterior motive for tonight’s get together, she wanted some more photos.
When we got of the subte at Callao there was a huge crowd around the entrance to Zivals, television crews, film crews and photographers. We never found out exactly what was happening but there was a small orchestra inside, though they were not playing as we passed. We arrived early at the pizzeria and it was packed out, but we managed to find an empty table at the back, I was watching the door but was not sure if I would see Janis arrive. We ordered beer and told the waiter we were waiting for a friend, but I decided I would go down to the front and check out the pizzas and also to be nearer the door for when Janis arrived. My timing was perfect and I got there just as she turned into the doorway.
We had a great meal (best pizza I have had in Buenos Aires) and then she attacked us with the camera again. Watch her blog for further adventures of the tango modelos, set off well against the red walls.She sent me a couple from the night as well that I have put at the end of the post.
Porteño y Bailerin was packed out and we were relegated to the back with the extranjeros, but as we have not been regulars on this visit, it was as much as we could expect.
Jorge Garcia was there and graced us with his presence and wished us “Buen Viaje” it was nice that he came over while I was dancing with Janis. We were amused that he was talking to Viv and surprised how much she understood. As it was near the start of the tanda they got up and joined us on the floor as well. Viv can now claim to have danced with one of the greatest milongueros.
A good night was had by all, although from where we were we could not see all the demos. Then again we are not great fans of them, although it would have been good to watch Flaco Dany again. Well we get a better view on youtube and we were having a socializing night, so while they all watched and stood on their toes straining their necks, we sat talking.
As we got up to leave an old flame of Janis’s was singing tango songs, so we had to wait, it would have been rude to go at that point and Janis of course wanted to say hello again. Funny how whenever you try to get away early things conspire against you.
Janis walked us to Lavalle and we saw a 94 bus coming, even though we were not at a stop she flagged it down. When they are busy the busses will not even wait at a stop but at three in the morning the drivers are much more amenable, and dare I say, even helpful. He was not at a stop, and sure as hell he was not going to stop long, there was barely time for a hug and we were gone leaving Janis on the street. Well at least we did not have time for tears.
An act for which I should be censured
Jorge says goodbye to Los Galeses