San Telmo

I thought we would do something touristy today, after all we are on holiday. So I checked the Buenos Aires government site and see if there is anything in San Telmo we have not yet seen.

We took the subte into town and then line “C” across town and down to San Telmo. First stop was for a coffee in Peru, there was no point in paying tourista prices in Plaza Dorrego. It seems the pigeons here fear nothing certainly not two extranjeros. One boldly came to patrol our table untill I shood him away. Next one came ont the table next to us, then I got showered with water as they threw a glass over their pigeon. They only gave up when I made a determined effort to grab our interloper by the throat. This pigeon had no desire to end up in the oven, so went off to harass someone else.

I had a list and we set off to tick as much off as we could. We have been to Plaza Dorrego often but it is always a good starting point. The market stalls that populate the square on a weekend are in short supply but the hawkers trying to get us to eat in their restaurants were not, and we had to keep saying “no Gracias” over and over.

The centre of the square has been turned into a restaurant come tango show, and there is a smartly dressed couple dancing away, with some style, but we are not impressed, the hold is too loose, arms doing the leading and, he is looking down all the time. (yes I know I do that as well, but I am not supposed to be a professional dancer). Still it impresses the tourists and that is the point, still when one of my favourite milongas comes (Reliquias Portenas by Canaro) on we have to stay and watch.

We took in the market, El Viejo Almacen, La Cumparsita, and then headed for Museo del traje (literally museum of the suit, but actually a museum of clothing). Typically when we arrived it was not open and as we had not eaten and it would soon be open anyway we decided to eat.

We do not do big lunches these days and it was hard to find something that fitted our needs but eventually we happened upon an Ice cream place that did coffee and snacks. As we sat eating the news was on and we were amazed to see that fifteen of the chilean miners were already out, even with the sound off and with spanish subtitles it was compulsive watching.

We were no help to the miners sitting in a cafe in San Telmo so we set out again for the Museo del Traje. They do not charge entrada but ask mearly for donations, just as well really we were through all the exhibits in a matter of minutes. What was great however was that this was in a traditional Buenos Aires house with an interior patio area and little had been changed, from here it was possible to get some idea of what life would have been like for a better off family of the 1900s.

After watching more live feeds from the BBC of Chile we set off for Viejo Correo. The guy on the door remembered us and asked how we were but Jorge (the organiser seemed not to recognise us. They have rearranged this place yet again. At first sight it looked like they had moved the DJ, but that would be almost impossible. They have, in fact, moved all the chairs so that the dance floor is effectively moved half its length nearer the door.

At first it is quite quiet and we have plenty of space but as the night goes on it gets more crowded, but never to a point where dancing becomes difficult.

We sit in one of our favourite venues with a bottle of Quilmes Negra good music, and now all the miners are out, it doesn’t get better than this.

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2 Comments

Filed under Argentina, Tango

2 responses to “San Telmo

  1. tangobob

    No we got the subte home first, only yanquis and touristas can afford taxis. We were watching the live feeds via tinternet.

  2. jantango

    So did you take a bus from San Telmo to Viejo Correo? That’s a long and expensive ride by taxi.

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