Brahms in the Park

We really intended a quiet day today, so we were up quite late, but I still had some things to do. First on my agenda was to get in touch with Pericles, we had been here over two weeks and our time was going fast. I now had a phone number so I phoned him, of course he did not answer. I know that he is busy so I sent him another message on facebook with our numbers on.

Then the phone rang “Es Señor (I did not catch the name but knew it was not me)” “No” I said. Then this lady went off into sales patter “soy extranjero” I said “Perfecto, conoces el servicios de (again I did not recognise the company)”. “No Soy extranjero, mis castillano es muy pobre”, but she was not put off “Perfecto” she said and continued” “Estoy en vacaciones” I tried. She was not giving up, this is just like home I thought. She only finally gave up when she realised I did not have a clue what she was selling.

Five minuets later and the phone rang again “Hola” I said and a laugh came back down the phone “Perry!” “you recognised my laugh he said”. I explained how difficult I was finding communications this time and he said “yes nothing works here” then like it was doing a full demo, the phone went dead. Anyway he called back and we arranged to meet again Friday.

Five minutes later the phone rang again, I was getting annoyed, but it was Pericles again he had used ring back from my missed call. At least someone in this city returns calls.

We set off again for Suipacha and Vivs shoes, it all went smoothly and without incident. So now we were in town with nothing really  to do. We meandered down towards Florida but never quite made it. I wanted to see The Museum at Palicio de Aguas so I suggested we head off in that direction.

We Crossed Julio 5 and Viv wanted to investigate the Tango show there. So we went inside and asked about the prices, knowing that they would be a lot cheaper here for our friends than if they booked them on a trip.
We now passed Teatro Colon and walked over the area that covers the workshops. There is a huge screen there and we watched for a while as it showed images of the interior.
Next we walked over to the vast green area known as Tribunales. I took some pictures of the Rubber tree there that is over a hundred years old. While there we could hear music and we found that there were speakers located around, playing Brahms. We stopped for a while to listen. There were also pictures of Teatro Colon from years gone by, including some famous names. It was here I saw pictures of the excavations for the workshops we had walked over and that is how I knew that they were there.
Then I had an idea, I knew there was a place close by that we could buy coffee to take out, but when we got there it was closed.
We wandered around and found a kiosco selling cold drinks and filled media lunas. We bought two jamon y queso calientes and two pomelos then went back to sit in the sun.

We were surrounded by Brahms exotic (to us) birds and photos of the Teatro from days of yor. It was a most pleasant way to while away the time.
The media lunas were huge, so Viv’s plan to have steak tonight may just have to wait.
Now deciding the time for Palacio de aguas had passed we walked toward Sarmiento. We had seen a jug like the jug we had bought the other day for half the price. Then this morning Viv broke it so it was fortunate I now knew where to get one cheaper.
On the way we looked at prices on items we had bought before, all were now double. I wonder how long this can continue before we have another collapse.

It’s Thursday so we are off to Fulgor again. There is a different guy on the door and he seems much more amiable, but it did little for the numbers. An old couple who we have seen here for years left early, I think that they wanted more tango and less cumbia. Still we danced a plenty and I even got Viv up for the Chacarera.
Everyone welcomed us and asked if we would be here Sunday. Of course we will, but I doubt more and more we will be coming next year. I think the place will have died by then. Still there is no point in dwelling on it, let’s just enjoy it while it is still here and face the future when it happens.

Hoy Turistas

Finally we decided to do something touristy today. We took the subte into town and just walked down Florida. Viv managed to buy some pens on the subte at $10 for three she was quite happy. I had no intention of buying anything in Florida, it is all expensive tourist rubbish, but I do enjoy the colour.
We found a little shopping centre and Viv managed to find a scarf that she has been after, so we bought two, pink and green.
After all this shopping, time for another cafe con leche. I do enjoy the cafe life here, it’s nice to just sit and watch the world go by. A lesson learned, we had a slice of apple crumble, just one between us and two forks.
Viv had been sneaky; once I was relaxed she reminded me that a friend had given us a card to get discount in a shoe shop, so it was off to Suipacha. I got roped into buying two pairs, but when it came to pay, despite the door being plastered with Visa, MasterCard, and Access, they could not take my card. So my daily money and what I had saved for the coffee table was wiped out. And that was for just one pair, the other pair is set aside for tomorrow, with a note about my discount.
When we had left the subte I passed a blind man, I had felt guilty passing him, but could not reach my money in the crush. Normally I do not give to beggars, especially the guy standing on Florida in two hundred-dollar trainers saying “cambio cambio”. This guy though looked so genuine that we went back into the same subte to try and give him some money. Unfortunately he was no longer there.
A few trips ago we stopped in a place called Bocado on Sarmiento 2226 for a coffee. We have often said we should go back so today we got off the subte at Pasteur and walked over to Sarmiento. We had a panini each with chicken and cheese. Mine had Dijon mustard and mushrooms Viv was just boring. With a pomelo for Viv and a cervesa for me it cost no more than the coffee and chocolate mouse we had at Martinez two days ago, so I was satisfied.
I felt tired and not prepared for a late night, so I thought we would join Janis at Lo de Celia. As we were about to leave I could not find my shoes and slowly it dawned on me that I had lost them. Somewhere I had lost my bag with my shoes in, my umbrella and worst of all my camcorder. We mentally backtracked and the only place we could think of was La Moncloa where we had stopped for a beer the night before. There was no point in rushing, if they were there, they would stay, but if someone had made off with them then they were gone.
We joined Janis, Jean, John and Jane in Lo de Celia. It was Johns last night and we did not realise he would be here. Just shows, great minds think alike. So Janis had a chance to get some pictures of us all, and John had a great last night. We had some good dances and Dany got his applause at La Cumparsita. At the end though we had to rush off, I was not sure at what time La Moncloa closed and we had a fifteen block walk to find out.
We need not have worried, the lights were on and they were at home when we arrived. The waiter recognised us and almost before I mentioned “Bolsa Roja” they were fetching my bag from behind the bar.
My faith in humanity was once again re-enforced.
Back home now on our faithful 168 colectivo, and submarinos before bed.

OK you win

There is an apartment block across the road, where they are all for rent. They call it a tango apartment block, I have now sent them four emails, in a desperate attempt to bring them business. As we enter our last week I still have heard nothing and there is no one on the door to ask.
I decided to look further and just the other side of Cordoba on Bulnes is a place called Quality Studios. They have not answered my mail either. So today I thought we could walk down and have a look.
On the way down we passed an Hotel. I was not to sure but thought we could have a look. Inside reception was deserted. Eventually some old guy came. “Tienes habitaciones con dos camas?” I ventured “no” he replied. Then another lady said “Si” “Quanto cuesta?” I asked, then he said “Depende” on what, how long? So I tried “Dos Semanas” “Cien por noche” well that sounded good. “Tienes tarjeta de empressa?” “No” well how the hell can we book if we have no business details. I was going to ask to see a room, but Viv had had enough of this and was dragging me out.
The Quality Studios looked good and there was a guy in the reception. He came to the door when summoned. “Hay departmentos alquiler?” I asked “Si” he replied. Things were looking good so far. “Puedo verlo? I asked. Then I got the long chapter again about the lady is not here and I must contact her. He did try to be helpful. He gave us a card and even though I told him I had emailed, he gave me the email address and the telephone number, pointing to the phone here in reception. So this is the choice; I can email again and fail to get a response, again, or I can phone up and speak to the guy I had just been talking to.
Thats it! I totally give up, Argentina you win, You do not want business, now I understand.
I felt totally defeated and we just wandered for a bit, we ended up near Club Fulgor as Viv wanted to see the Outlet Village in day time. There is a cafe on the corner called Jammin, and she always says we should try it, so we stopped outside and drank a coffee in the sun. I felt a little better then so we wandered back checking the shops and even popped into Jumbo. The biggest supermarket for miles and all we bought was a packet of frozen potato noisettes.
Nuevo chique was a success, we both managed some good dances, but as always after three hours we had had enough. So we stopped off at Moncloa on Congresso for a beer and then caught a 151 home.
That was another new experience; The number was not illuminated on the front, and if it hadn’t been for the old lady who was at the stop with us, it probably would not have stopped. At first I did not move to get on, then I saw the number on the side. The old dear was having a right go first at the driver, who said he could do nothing about it. Then she started on Viv, who had no idea what she was saying, but still she persisted. I had to do a quick translation for Viv “She said the light is not on” She sat at the front barracking the driver then turning round to us I was glad to get off, although I think that now the driver was in for it as he would be the only focus of her ire.

Russian, who me?

We got up late again, well we are supposed to be on holiday. There was a lot of noise outside, the banging was so bad Viv thought that they were knocking the place down. Edisur were digging up our pavements again, Viv thought that perhaps it was to deal with the power cut we had. Nice thought, I just cannot believe that they would be that efficient.
There was not time to do much, but we had to go out for some shopping. On our way around we passed a few new (to us) furniture shops. Still there was nothing that grabbed Viv, although I did see some boxes. If we do not get a coffee table this time I am getting one of those to put my cup on.
We found one very disorganised place and halfway down they had a box full of mugs, we may go back for one or two. If we have to let the place next year we will need spares.
We walked to the kiosco that was closed last night, hoping to buy some chocolate amargo, but they only had one bar. Viv said it is like 1970s Yugoslavia. We did get some chocolate, although it was different again.
Trying to find anything is a challenge here and we wanted a bottle brush. Well there is a place on Corrientes but you have to tell them what you want. We walked in and there was a youngish bald black guy ranting at us “ruso aleman?” I had no idea what he was on about at first but he was laughing away “de donde son?” ah, now I understood “Gales” “Ah inglatera, I have a friend Gales”. We could see what we wanted at the back of the shop, so we then had a version of “The Golden Shot” anyone remember that program? Left a bit, Right, back a bit, that’s it. Once we had our brush I tried to find out what it was called, but he just kept saying ruso. “Rusos son mafioso” I said, but he said “No italiano”. Anyway ten pesos for a brush, it was worth it for the entertainment.
Outside and I was trying to put the brush in Viv’s bag, he called me in again. I don’t know what he wanted, it was just one of those, no you called me, moments. I was still smiling when we got back to the flat.
Off to El Arranque again today, we arrived about five. We have learned that there is no point being here at the beginning, but also if we are early enough we get some good dances and get our faces known.Tthere are a few here who know us already so there were not many tandas where either of us sat out. One I did sit out though was when Viv danced with Jesus. I mentioned him last year when he danced with Viv, she said his dance was wonderful, so I wanted to watch and learn. As she said though, you cannot learn to dance like that, he is simply Jesus.
Afer Jesus she was ready to go home, but I was not. We stayed until I could at least have a milonga with my wife, marriage must have some privileges.
On the way back to the subte Viv wanted to stop for a coffee. I prefer a local place but Viv wanted Starbucks. As usual we compromised and we stopped at Martinez. You should have seen the chocolate mousse cake! A lesson I have not yet learned is the portion size here. The cake was just too good to leave and we asked for two pieces. It took some eating, but we Finches never leave food. We could have had a meal for what it cost, but my it was good. Probably 1500 calories each, death by chocolate.
Now we really had to get back.

Get your Ducks in a row

Janis sent me an Email, entitled Das Gute Bier, because she had found some German Beer in a local supermercardo. (apparently we British are all alcoholics). But it got me wondering about language and how much cross over there now is. She asked “Do the Argentines read German” More to the point do they actually speak Castillano?
Brigitte was talking about business (A German woman in Argentina, get the link?) and she said that they simply do not get their ducks in a row here. Now how is that for a bit of idiomatic English.
Go down any street here and you will see english signs like “services de lunch” and “Camping” although my favourite still is at a tatoo parlour “Yes it does hurt”.
You got to love em. But for me life would be so much easier if they spoke their own language but kept it simple.
I have tried contacting two tango apartments with a view to bringing them custom next year, I never got a reply. One of them was not even at the address they gave when I went to look. I tried finding the place the guy from Gascon told me about, with his vague description I may as well start looking for needles in haystacks. (Oh no! now I am at it).
I keep hearing about businesses struggling here. It is all the fault of outside influences, Estados Unidos, Comunidad Economica Europa, even Las Malvinas. Although God alone knows how a small island eight hundred miles from Argentina can pull them out of this mess.
Perhaps in this God-fearing country they would be advised to remember the serenity prayer:
God, grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change,
The courage to change the things I can,
And wisdom to know the difference.
In other words, give up blaming everyone else and start keeping better time, be there when you say you will. Answer you mail, email, phone whatever. When a customer turns up welcome them, they can spend their money wherever they please, make their pleasure you business. Forget about bungs and back handers, recommend from the heart, your customers will love you for it.
For all that is wrong here I and many other extranjeros love the place, but, and this is the big one, we will go to the businesses that are most business like.
In 2006 my arrangements to come here were stalled, the agent who we had used decided not to bother answering my mail until a fortnight before I was due to fly. Had she answered earlier I probably would have still been using her, but we fell out. With less than two weeks to go I sent out over two dozen emails to tango guest houses, Only one answered, and I am still friends with and recommending Luba Tango House, Palermo Buenos Aires.
This rant has gone on a bit I know, but I hate to see things going down as they are. We are off to Club Fulgor tonight and I doubt anyone from there will read this, but if they are to continue, as I dearly hope they do: They must either stop advertising as a milonga or become one. They must start welcoming people at the door (as much as they do to us inside) instead of always trying to turn them away. And in common with every other business here open and close at the stated time.
Well it was quite a turn up tonight, the numbers were up and even the old guy on the door was pleasant. He still spent the whole evening staring at the wall though. We danced right to the end and finished with some fabulous vals.
On the walk home the kiosco where we found our chocolate amargo was closed so we tried the one across the road and they did not have it, so we bought ice cream instead.
There is another kiosco next to our apartment and as luck would have it was open. We had tried previously for chocolate negra and sin leche all to no avail but tonight we had the right words. “Tiene chocolate amargo?” I asked. The guy recognised us, and just said “no” and smiled. I have never seen a patron so happy not to make a sale.

Old waiters never die, they just go to Coca Cola

All I intended doing today was hang the curtain rail in the bedroom. Not a difficult task in the grand scheme of things.
When I awoke Viv was already up and I put the bedside light on to check the time. It didn’t work, so I tried the other one, that didn’t work either, nor did the main light. Not sure if the power was off, I looked out of the window and sure enough the traffic lights were off.
This meant I could not fit the rail, no electric, no drill. It seemed much quieter outside though, for once buses, cars and motorbikes were not revving up waiting for the green light. Also it looked like they were more considerate to pedestrians, perhaps they should turn them all off.
Anyway, I could join the rails to the bend I had bought. That was a job and a half in itself. Trouble is our rail was five eighths of an inch, the bend was fifteen millimeters. (note the rail was five eights outside diameter and the bend fifteen millimeter outside) So one was not about to fit inside the other easily. I pushed and poked I even tried heating up the rail, but in the end only supreme effort got it in. Once joined, let no man put asunder. Well I was not about to try and separate them again.
I asked Sebastian (Our portero) if I could borrow a drill. As always happens, I did not understand the answer. He said something about the electric. I nodded sagely and said “when the electric comes back” or words to that effect. It seems he doesn’t understand me either because he said “No se” meaning he didn’t know when it would be back. I just meant I could use the drill when it returned. Never the less he turned up with the drill ten minutes later, explaining how I should use the chuck key. “Soy ingeniero” I said. Then he asked if I had drill bits and I said I had.
Later when we finally had electric, I looked but could not find my drill bit. I knew I had bought one last year, but I went out to the feretaria again for another.
Typically when I had finished, I found not only the drill bit but also all the screws and plugs that I would have needed. So I had had two trips to the fereteria for nothing and a box full of stuff that will probably never get used.
We had planned to go to a private milonga that we had been invited to at Conventillo de Lujo but it had been cancelled. This was fortunate as Janis wanted us to go to El Arranque, so we arranged to meet Brigitte there as well.
When I got in I said “separados pero una mesa por tres mujeres”.
I don’t think I missed a dance here, it was amazing and all the ladies were very complimentary. I think I was dancing with Viv when Janis arrived but the waiter was not sure where to put her so she waited until we sat down again. Not long after Brigitte arrived as well and the ladies were having a grand old chatter. No wonder they missed dances, I had a job getting them up. I even had to go over to their table to get one of them up.
When I danced with Brigitte she asked why I was sitting on a different table. I said it is so that I can dance and so that you will be asked.
While dancing with Janis she told me about Carlito the waiter who was always here, apparently he now works for Coca Cola. A waste of a great waiter we both agreed.
When the chacarera came on Viv again saw a chance to neglect her duty and got Janis to dance with me. She also decided it would be a good chance to change her shoes as she was getting hungry.
The next tanda was D’Arienzo so I danced half a tanda with Janis, I think she is more afraid of Viv than I am because she stopped when she saw Viv waiting.
Any way while Janis set off for Lo de Celia we went to 1810 for empanadas and lentejas, washed down with Quilmes Negra. Well that made Viv happy and Brigitte as well, I think. So afterwards we loaded Brigitte on to the subte at Scalabrini Ortiz and set off for home and our submarinos.

Not the best meal

Having totally given up on the occasional table, we returned our efforts to the bedroom curtain rail.
I decided that if I could not have a bend I would simply butt up two poles. So another trip to Easy was on the cards.
Again we had the same problems, nothing matches. we could find black curtain rods but not black supports. In the end we went for silver, simply because that was the colour we could get everything in. We returned with our spoils and to lick my wounds from the price only to find we had not actually bought the supports. Another trip to Easy was needed.
We realised that we were running early so we decided to walk to Easy get the parts we needed and then get the subte into town.
We managed to buy the supports, and finally I found a bend that would do the job (I hoped) Then it was off into town and Confiteria Ideal.
We were meeting up with Xenia and Greame again before they return to the UK tomorrow. When we entered we asked if we could sit at adjacent tables but Diago was having non of it and insisted we all sat together at the back of the room.
I told him from there we could not cabeceo but he was not listening. As it was the last time we will see Xenia and Greame I thought it best to just let it lie, but next week I think we will try somewhere else.
I managed a few dances, as did Xenia, but I am afraid Greame and Viv only danced with those on the table.
Well it was too soon time for them to go and we walked with them to the subte, and after an emotional farewell we promised to meet up again some time in July.
Then it was time for us to eat something. Viv fancied Subway but they were closing up so we jumped on the subte and headed back. We tried Gratto on the corner of Corrientes but Viv fancied nothing that was on so we just had a coffee.
next place to try was Guardia la Vieja we had enjoyed the food here before and it was a reasonable price.
We settled down to Quilmes stout and waited for our empanadas and papas fritas. Viv was not happy they came on two separate wooden boards with no plates and they were dripping with grease.
Not the best meal we have had, but it filled us up.